Month: March 2019

Paris Uncovered Tours

Our 5 Favorite Bridges in Paris

The River Seine is undoubtedly one of Paris’ most defining characteristics, dividing the city into the Right and Left Banks. While once once had to pay to cross from the bourgeois Left to the aristocratic Right, today, each of Paris’ 37 bridges is free to traverse – and each offers a different allure. Here are five of our all-time faves.

1. Bir Hakeim

This bridge may be a bit off the beaten path, linking the residential 15th and 16th arrondissements, but it’s one of our faves for two reasons. Firstly, its steel girding makes for excellent photo ops, and second, it offers one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower from the upper level, where the tracks for metro line 6 run.

2. Pont Saint-Louis

The Pont Saint-Louis links Paris’ two natural islands: Ile Saint-Louis and Ile de la Cité. Not only does this bridge offer an impressive view of Notre Dame Cathedral, but it’s also a frequent workplace for buskers, and you’ll often hear accordion or piano players serenading passers-by with French classics like “La Vie en Rose.”

3. Pont Alexandre III

The ornate Pont Alexandre III, named for the former czar of Russia, is a sight to behold. The Art Nouveau bridge was originally built for the World’s Fair of 1900 and leads to the nearby Grand and Petit Palais, also inaugurated for the event.

4. Pont Neuf

The longest bridge in Paris is also the oldest: Pont Neuf (whose name, oddly enough, means new bridge) spans both banks of the river and the Ile de la Cité in between. King Henri IV, who commissioned the bridge in the mid-16th century, sits proudly atop his horse in the very center.

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5. Pont des Arts

The pedestrian Pont des Arts has often been deemed Paris’ most romantic bridge, and while the love locks that once adorned it have since been removed (they were damaging its structural integrity), it’s still a lovely place to walk hand-in-hand with your chéri!

bistro

Our Top 5 Bistros in Paris

While it might seem that gingham-tableclothed bistros would be everywhere in Paris, the truth is that this traditional bastion of French gastronomy has fallen a bit by the wayside. The current trend in Paris features market-driven small plates restaurants; most of the bistros you see cater to the uninitiated and churn out ho-hum food that might not even be homemade.

That said, for those looking for a true bistro experience, there’s hope! Here are our five faves in Paris for a truly delicious, truly classic French bistro meal.

1. Allard

Allard has been an emblem of Paris’ bistro scene for nearly a century, and seeing as its original chef, Fernande Allard, was a woman, tradition has long called for it to be helmed by a female chef. Fanny Herpin is at the range today, dishing up old classics like escargots, cassoulet, and frog’s legs, as well as her own inventions (particularly at lunchtime) like beet and mackerel salad.

Allard – 41 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006

2. Bistrot Paul Bert

The diminutive rue Paul Bert in Paris’ 11th arrondissement is home to a host of fantastic spots to eat, perhaps none more emblematic than this little bistro. Known especially for its steak-frites with pepper sauce, Paul Bert is an essential stop for anyone seeking old-fashioned charm à la française.

Bistrot Paul Bert – 22 Rue Paul Bert, 75011

3. Le Trumilou

Overlooking the River Seine sits this Auvergnat bistro; while nothing too fancy to look at, it’s famous for what the French affectionately call plats en sauce: rich, filling dishes like beef bourguignon or veal blanquette. The house-made fries, served as a side with the exquisite steak au poivre.

Le Trumilou – 84 Quai de l’Hôtel de ville, 75004

4. Café des Musées

This neighborhood bistro has long been a Marais favorite, and despite an unfortunate changing-of-hands a few years ago, it’s back on top with a revamped menu of culinary classics. A few modern touches slip onto this menu – the escargots are served, not in their shells, but in individual mushroom caps. But tradition remains, including the best beef bourguignon in Paris (and we’ve tried a lot of them).

Café des Musées – 49 Rue de Turenne, 75003

5. Astier

This bistro expertly balances classic French dining and modern touches. Reaching even further into the past than many other Paris staples, this is the place to come for prune-stuffed rabbit or crispy beef tongue in addition to more quotidian options like roasted scallops or pot au feu. But Astier is famous, above all, for its cheese plate, which is self-service and unlimited.

Astier – 44 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011

Why is French Butter So Much Better?

If you’ve ever had a French croissant (or even a bit of bread with a healthy pat of French butter), you know that there’s something better about it than the butter we get back home. But while many would attribute this to fat, that’s not the whole story.

French butter is indeed higher in fat than American butter – about 82 percent minimum, as opposed to the 80 percent required in the U.S. But in addition to being higher in fat, French butter is also cultured, a process whereby live active cultures are added to the cream before the butter is churned. In this way, butter takes on its own flavor – a slight tang – that makes it all the more moreish.

Specialty French Butters

While all French butters are higher in fat and cultured, there are a few specialty butters – the crème de la crème (or the beurre du beurre, perhaps) – that are even more delicious.

AOP/AOC Butter

Butter with an AOP or AOC is a protected butter from a specific region. Like wines such as Champagne or Saint-Emilion or cheeses like Roquefort or Camembert de Normandie, butters bearing this symbol are made from producers who have pledged to follow strict rules and use only milk produced in one of three regions, depending on the AOP on which they depend: Isigny, Bresse, or Charentes-Poitou. The latter is particularly beloved by pastry chefs, as it melts more slowly than other butters.

Beurre de Baratte

Baratte is the French word for churn; this butter is sometimes made in an old-fashioned churn but more often than not in a modern churning machine. Either way, it’s distinct from butter made in a centrifuge in that it is matured for better flavor and usually contains more whey.

Salted Butter

Most butter in France is doux or unsalted, but you can also find beurre demi-sel, or half-salted butter, which contains between .8 and 3 percent salt, or salted butter, which contains more than 3 percent salt. Find either one with sea salt from Guérande for a real treat!

Where Can I Find Great Butter?

You can find great butter anywhere in France – even in the grocery store! But for the best butter experience, trust your fromager – your cheesemonger. He’ll have fresh, specialty butter and may even have some varieties infused with flavors like vanilla or seaweed!

Find out more about butter on our Best Bites of Paris tour!

3 Things to Do in Paris in March

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about this month.

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1. Ice Skating with a View of the Eiffel Tower

There are still two more weeks left to visit Hors Piste, a popup winter wonderland in the 16th complete with a Swiss chalet-themed bar and a skating rink. There’s even a plastic bubble protecting some of the seats, so you can enjoy this spot rain or shine.

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2. Rooftop Drinks at BHV

The BHV is best known as one of Paris’ main department stores, but we love it for its rooftop bar! While the Perchoir is a Parisian summertime fave, in winter, it’s all dolled up to be truly cozy – the perfect spot for a delicious Pisco Sour or a glass of French wine!

3. Discovering Rare Impressionist Works

Paris is no stranger to the works of famed Impressionists like Monet and Renoir. You can find many of these gorgeous, color-forward paintings at the Orangerie, Musée d’Orsay, or the Marmottan. But until June, Paris is also welcoming a temporary exhibit of Impressionist art at the Fondation Louis Vuitton – we wouldn’t miss it!