While it might seem that gingham-tableclothed bistros would be everywhere in Paris, the truth is that this traditional bastion of French gastronomy has fallen a bit by the wayside. The current trend in Paris features market-driven small plates restaurants; most of the bistros you see cater to the uninitiated and churn out ho-hum food that might not even be homemade.

That said, for those looking for a true bistro experience, there’s hope! Here are our five faves in Paris for a truly delicious, truly classic French bistro meal.

1. Allard

Allard has been an emblem of Paris’ bistro scene for nearly a century, and seeing as its original chef, Fernande Allard, was a woman, tradition has long called for it to be helmed by a female chef. Fanny Herpin is at the range today, dishing up old classics like escargots, cassoulet, and frog’s legs, as well as her own inventions (particularly at lunchtime) like beet and mackerel salad.

Allard – 41 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006

2. Bistrot Paul Bert

The diminutive rue Paul Bert in Paris’ 11th arrondissement is home to a host of fantastic spots to eat, perhaps none more emblematic than this little bistro. Known especially for its steak-frites with pepper sauce, Paul Bert is an essential stop for anyone seeking old-fashioned charm à la française.

Bistrot Paul Bert – 22 Rue Paul Bert, 75011

3. Le Trumilou

Overlooking the River Seine sits this Auvergnat bistro; while nothing too fancy to look at, it’s famous for what the French affectionately call plats en sauce: rich, filling dishes like beef bourguignon or veal blanquette. The house-made fries, served as a side with the exquisite steak au poivre.

Le Trumilou – 84 Quai de l’Hôtel de ville, 75004

4. Café des Musées

This neighborhood bistro has long been a Marais favorite, and despite an unfortunate changing-of-hands a few years ago, it’s back on top with a revamped menu of culinary classics. A few modern touches slip onto this menu – the escargots are served, not in their shells, but in individual mushroom caps. But tradition remains, including the best beef bourguignon in Paris (and we’ve tried a lot of them).

Café des Musées – 49 Rue de Turenne, 75003

5. Astier

This bistro expertly balances classic French dining and modern touches. Reaching even further into the past than many other Paris staples, this is the place to come for prune-stuffed rabbit or crispy beef tongue in addition to more quotidian options like roasted scallops or pot au feu. But Astier is famous, above all, for its cheese plate, which is self-service and unlimited.

Astier – 44 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011