French, Swiss, or Belgian: Who Makes the Best Chocolate?

Take a wander through some of Paris’ top chocolateries, and you’ll encounter not just the French Patrick Roger and and Jacques Génin but the Belgian Pierre Marcolini or the Swiss-influenced Bretons Henri Roux and Philippe Pascoët. And while no matter what, each individual chocolatier will have characteristics that make him unique, these three big families of chocolate-making are actually quite distinct.

Swiss Chocolate

Often hailed as the chocolate capital of Europe, the Swiss invented (and perfected) luxuriously creamy milk chocolate. Swiss chocolate also has an ultra-creamy texture thanks to the use of the conching technique, which involves warming the chocolate while you grind it.

Belgian Chocolate

Many Belgian chocolatiers use emulsifiers to attempt to achieve the same texture as Swiss milk chocolate; as a general rule, Belgian chocolate is darker than Swiss. Belgians also invented both the praline and the filled chocolate, so if you’re visiting a Belgian chocolatier, opt for one of these rich, delicious creations.

French Chocolate

French chocolate tends to be lower in fat than either its Belgian or Swiss counterparts: this is truly the place for lovers of dark chocolate to give into their vice! French chocolate bonbons tend to be dipped rather than filled like their Belgian counterparts, making for a thinner chocolate shell that melts more easily on the tongue.

Learn even more about what makes chocolate special on our Sweet Tooth in Saint Germain tour!

Paris Mourns the Devastation of Notre Dame

Last night we watched, devastated and heartbroken, as fire ravaged Notre Dame de Paris.

For us, it’s not only our frequent place of work, a majestic sight that so many of you have visited with us, it’s also a symbol of what we love about Paris: the thinkers, the creators, the dreamers who have passed through these streets and contributed to making it the beautiful city that it is.

While we went to sleep with heavy hearts last night, we see the situation in fresh light today. What seemed an impossible task – saving the stone structure, the towers, the rose windows, the relics – has been made possible thanks to the brilliant, brave, and tireless work of 500 firefighters.

The stone structure with its flying buttresses still stand. The iconic facade with its mighty high towers are largely undamaged. The interior vaulted ceiling is (mostly) still standing. The famous rose windows (some of oldest and largest in world) appear to be intact.

Paris is resilient and so is Notre Dame. Notre Dame has survived World Wars. A Revolution. Centuries of ups and downs. The famous motto of Paris seems appropriate today: “She is tossed by the waves, but does not sink.”

Notre Dame will be rebuilt. It will take time, but we will witness the Cathedral brought back to it’s former glory to delight future generations of visitors.  

What does this mean for visitors to Paris? While we will not have the pleasure of leading you on a guided tour inside Notre Dame anytime soon, our passion for the city hasn’t been extinguished. We hope to continue to introduce you to the beauty, and resilience, of the City of Light.

For anyone looking to contribute or support the reconstruction, donations are being collected here and here.

Below are a few images of the fire fight, the aftermath, and two of our favorite personal snaps of Notre Dame de Paris.

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Paris Uncovered Tours

Our 5 Favorite Bridges in Paris

The River Seine is undoubtedly one of Paris’ most defining characteristics, dividing the city into the Right and Left Banks. While once once had to pay to cross from the bourgeois Left to the aristocratic Right, today, each of Paris’ 37 bridges is free to traverse – and each offers a different allure. Here are five of our all-time faves.

1. Bir Hakeim

This bridge may be a bit off the beaten path, linking the residential 15th and 16th arrondissements, but it’s one of our faves for two reasons. Firstly, its steel girding makes for excellent photo ops, and second, it offers one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower from the upper level, where the tracks for metro line 6 run.

2. Pont Saint-Louis

The Pont Saint-Louis links Paris’ two natural islands: Ile Saint-Louis and Ile de la Cité. Not only does this bridge offer an impressive view of Notre Dame Cathedral, but it’s also a frequent workplace for buskers, and you’ll often hear accordion or piano players serenading passers-by with French classics like “La Vie en Rose.”

3. Pont Alexandre III

The ornate Pont Alexandre III, named for the former czar of Russia, is a sight to behold. The Art Nouveau bridge was originally built for the World’s Fair of 1900 and leads to the nearby Grand and Petit Palais, also inaugurated for the event.

4. Pont Neuf

The longest bridge in Paris is also the oldest: Pont Neuf (whose name, oddly enough, means new bridge) spans both banks of the river and the Ile de la Cité in between. King Henri IV, who commissioned the bridge in the mid-16th century, sits proudly atop his horse in the very center.

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5. Pont des Arts

The pedestrian Pont des Arts has often been deemed Paris’ most romantic bridge, and while the love locks that once adorned it have since been removed (they were damaging its structural integrity), it’s still a lovely place to walk hand-in-hand with your chéri!

bistro

Our Top 5 Bistros in Paris

While it might seem that gingham-tableclothed bistros would be everywhere in Paris, the truth is that this traditional bastion of French gastronomy has fallen a bit by the wayside. The current trend in Paris features market-driven small plates restaurants; most of the bistros you see cater to the uninitiated and churn out ho-hum food that might not even be homemade.

That said, for those looking for a true bistro experience, there’s hope! Here are our five faves in Paris for a truly delicious, truly classic French bistro meal.

1. Allard

Allard has been an emblem of Paris’ bistro scene for nearly a century, and seeing as its original chef, Fernande Allard, was a woman, tradition has long called for it to be helmed by a female chef. Fanny Herpin is at the range today, dishing up old classics like escargots, cassoulet, and frog’s legs, as well as her own inventions (particularly at lunchtime) like beet and mackerel salad.

Allard – 41 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006

2. Bistrot Paul Bert

The diminutive rue Paul Bert in Paris’ 11th arrondissement is home to a host of fantastic spots to eat, perhaps none more emblematic than this little bistro. Known especially for its steak-frites with pepper sauce, Paul Bert is an essential stop for anyone seeking old-fashioned charm à la française.

Bistrot Paul Bert – 22 Rue Paul Bert, 75011

3. Le Trumilou

Overlooking the River Seine sits this Auvergnat bistro; while nothing too fancy to look at, it’s famous for what the French affectionately call plats en sauce: rich, filling dishes like beef bourguignon or veal blanquette. The house-made fries, served as a side with the exquisite steak au poivre.

Le Trumilou – 84 Quai de l’Hôtel de ville, 75004

4. Café des Musées

This neighborhood bistro has long been a Marais favorite, and despite an unfortunate changing-of-hands a few years ago, it’s back on top with a revamped menu of culinary classics. A few modern touches slip onto this menu – the escargots are served, not in their shells, but in individual mushroom caps. But tradition remains, including the best beef bourguignon in Paris (and we’ve tried a lot of them).

Café des Musées – 49 Rue de Turenne, 75003

5. Astier

This bistro expertly balances classic French dining and modern touches. Reaching even further into the past than many other Paris staples, this is the place to come for prune-stuffed rabbit or crispy beef tongue in addition to more quotidian options like roasted scallops or pot au feu. But Astier is famous, above all, for its cheese plate, which is self-service and unlimited.

Astier – 44 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011

Why is French Butter So Much Better?

If you’ve ever had a French croissant (or even a bit of bread with a healthy pat of French butter), you know that there’s something better about it than the butter we get back home. But while many would attribute this to fat, that’s not the whole story.

French butter is indeed higher in fat than American butter – about 82 percent minimum, as opposed to the 80 percent required in the U.S. But in addition to being higher in fat, French butter is also cultured, a process whereby live active cultures are added to the cream before the butter is churned. In this way, butter takes on its own flavor – a slight tang – that makes it all the more moreish.

Specialty French Butters

While all French butters are higher in fat and cultured, there are a few specialty butters – the crème de la crème (or the beurre du beurre, perhaps) – that are even more delicious.

AOP/AOC Butter

Butter with an AOP or AOC is a protected butter from a specific region. Like wines such as Champagne or Saint-Emilion or cheeses like Roquefort or Camembert de Normandie, butters bearing this symbol are made from producers who have pledged to follow strict rules and use only milk produced in one of three regions, depending on the AOP on which they depend: Isigny, Bresse, or Charentes-Poitou. The latter is particularly beloved by pastry chefs, as it melts more slowly than other butters.

Beurre de Baratte

Baratte is the French word for churn; this butter is sometimes made in an old-fashioned churn but more often than not in a modern churning machine. Either way, it’s distinct from butter made in a centrifuge in that it is matured for better flavor and usually contains more whey.

Salted Butter

Most butter in France is doux or unsalted, but you can also find beurre demi-sel, or half-salted butter, which contains between .8 and 3 percent salt, or salted butter, which contains more than 3 percent salt. Find either one with sea salt from Guérande for a real treat!

Where Can I Find Great Butter?

You can find great butter anywhere in France – even in the grocery store! But for the best butter experience, trust your fromager – your cheesemonger. He’ll have fresh, specialty butter and may even have some varieties infused with flavors like vanilla or seaweed!

Find out more about butter on our Best Bites of Paris tour!

3 Things to Do in Paris in March

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about this month.

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1. Ice Skating with a View of the Eiffel Tower

There are still two more weeks left to visit Hors Piste, a popup winter wonderland in the 16th complete with a Swiss chalet-themed bar and a skating rink. There’s even a plastic bubble protecting some of the seats, so you can enjoy this spot rain or shine.

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2. Rooftop Drinks at BHV

The BHV is best known as one of Paris’ main department stores, but we love it for its rooftop bar! While the Perchoir is a Parisian summertime fave, in winter, it’s all dolled up to be truly cozy – the perfect spot for a delicious Pisco Sour or a glass of French wine!

3. Discovering Rare Impressionist Works

Paris is no stranger to the works of famed Impressionists like Monet and Renoir. You can find many of these gorgeous, color-forward paintings at the Orangerie, Musée d’Orsay, or the Marmottan. But until June, Paris is also welcoming a temporary exhibit of Impressionist art at the Fondation Louis Vuitton – we wouldn’t miss it!

cafés

Our Favorite Parisian Cafés

Is there anything more essentially Parisian than a café? They’re the perfect place to rest your tired feet between neighborhood walks, visits of the Louvre, and climbing to the top of the Eiffel Tower.

We love cafés of all kinds: big and ornate, tiny and cozy, modern or old-fashioned. With that in mind, here are our faves.

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Best View: La Contrescarpe

This classic Parisian café is located in the heart of the Latin Quarter overlooks the Place de la Contrescarpe, the very same quaint square that Ernest Hemingway used to cross every morning on his way to work. The sidewalk terrace is large enough to accommodate everyone who wants to sit in the sun, and on rainier days, the leather armchairs in the back room are super cozy.

Best Coffee: Café Lomi

Café Lomi is one of several artisanal roasters that has recently taken root in Paris. Boasting fantastic, house-roasted coffee and a slightly industrial feel, it’s the kind of place you’d be more likely to find in London or New York, but we love it all the same.

Most Historic: Les Deux Magots

We can forgive Les Deux Magots its touristy reputation given its long and illustrious history. While it’s not the oldest café in Paris (that honor goes to Le Procope), it is one of our favorite literary cafés, once the favorite watering hole of Paris’ Surrealist writers. Don’t miss the wooden magot statues inside that give this café its name!

Coziest: Boot Café

This diminutive café gets its name from the fact that it’s located in a former cobbler’s, or cordonnerie. As you can imagine, this makes the inside ultra-compact… and ultra-cozy.

Photo by rawpixel.com from Pexels

Top 5 French Phrases to Master Before Coming to Paris

A lot of visitors to Paris worry that they won’t be able to communicate in France without mastery of French, but the truth is, most French people have a working knowledge of English (and many of them speak it better than we do – thanks, American television!) But there are a few phrases that any visitor should master, whether it’s to communicate with one of the rare locals who doesn’t speak any English, or just to show that you’re making an effort with the locals.

With that in mind, here are the five phrases to master before visiting Paris.

1. Bonjour

Not so much a phrase as a word, bonjour is nevertheless the number one thing to learn how to say before visiting France. While most phrase books will translate bonjour as “hello,” it’s a lot more.

French culture requires that every interaction begin with an exchange of bonjour – before you even consider making a request. So every time you enter a shop or restaurant, say bonjour and wait to hear it back *before* asking for a able, a specific size, or anything else.

(Emily wrote all about bonjour – and what happens when you neglect to say it – for the Wall Street Journal.)

Pronunciation: bawn-DZOU

2. Bonne Journée

Goodbye is technically au revoir in French, but you’re far more likely to hear people say bonne journée at the end of an interaction, which means, “Have a good day!” Around 5pm, this will be traded out for bonne soirée or “Have a good evening!”

Under no circumstances, by the way, should you ever say bonne nuit or goodnight to strangers – this is a bit too intimate and should be reserved for people you live with.

Pronunciation: bun-dzou-NAY

3. Excusez-moi ?

Many cases of interacting with French people will begin with this phrase: it’s the right way to stop someone on the street before asking them, for example, where the closest métro stop is or what the time is.

Pronunciation: ex-coo-zay-MWA

4. Où sont les toilettes ?

Ah… that essential phrase. If you need the restroom, this is how to ask for it. A word of warning, though: Parisians do not take kindly to non-patrons using their restrooms, so you might want to order at least un café au bar (a coffee at the bar) before asking to use the facilities.

Pronunciation: oo-son-lay-twa-lett

5. Merci !

If you learn one word in a foreign language, make it “thank you!”

Pronunciation: mer-SEE

Learn even more about what makes the French tick with our custom tours, which can be tailored to any element of French culture you find fascinating.

5 Most Romantic Spots in Paris

Celebrating Valentine’s Day in the French capital is a no-brainer, but deciding what to do once you’re in Paris can be tougher. Luckily, we’ve got some off-the-beaten track suggestions to help make your Valentine’s Day as romantic as possible.

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Montmartre is one of our favorite neighborhoods in Paris, and it’s not hard to see why! The former village can be found atop Paris’ highest hill and is home to tons of quiet cobbled streets for canoodling… and the famous “I love you” wall.

Paris’ bateaux mouches are riverboats that escort you on a cruise down the city’s River Seine. What could be more romantic than holding hands as you take in Paris’ sights, all the way to the glittering Eiffel Tower?

Paris is home to 36 bridges, and everyone has their favorite. For years, the Pont des Arts was a big draw for young lovers, who would attach a padlock to the bridge’s rails as a symbol of their love. While the padlocks have since been removed, we still love this pedestrian bridge with its view of the Louvre.

Less well-known than the Seine, the Canal Saint-Martin to the north of Paris is no less lovely for a stroll. In fact, a wander along the smaller waterway, with its iron bridges, is one of our favorites if you prefer to steer clear of the crowds.

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Paris is home to tons of lovely parks, from the Luxembourg to the Tuileries to Buttes-Chaumont. One of the most romantic, to our mind, is the Jardin des Plantes, with beautiful gardens and one of the oldest gazebos in the world.

Top Photo by Grillot edouard on Unsplash

parisian café

Café Culture in Paris: Our Guide to Good Coffee and Great Ambiance

Paris is famous for its sidewalk cafés (dubbed terrasses by the locals), locations inextricably linked with its history.

From Procope, Paris’ first café, which hosted the founding fathers of both the French and the American Revolutions, to Flore, which Existentialist writer Jean-Paul Sartre considered a second home, to Brasserie Lipp, where Hemingway used to sit and scribble (and yes, sip a beer or two), it’s no wonder that sitting in a true Parisian café is on the minds of many visitors to the city.

For these writers and revolutionaries, Paris’ cafés became a sort of outdoor living room: a place they could meet to discuss writing, politics, and more. (Find out even more about this on our Left Bank tour!)

You may have noticed the repercussions of this tradition on the modern Parisian café. Here are just three ways Paris’ cafés retain this Old World culture.

1. You don’t need to pay rent.

Cafés have long been considered meeting places, in large part due to the fact that young thinkers and writers didn’t have the space to welcome their cohorts into their homes. They would linger over one drink for hours, and the same is still accepted – and even expected – in Paris today.

When you visit a Parisian café, you’re free to order just one drink and sit and talk, read, or – in some cases – even work on your computer, for as long as you like.

That said, don’t push this cultural norm too far! If you notice that the café is filling up (or that waiters are setting up for lunch!) either buy something new or move on.

2. Your waiter isn’t rude – despite what it may seem!

Waiters are far from attentive in Paris, but don’t misconstrue their intentions! Parisian waiters are purposefully aloof to keep you from feeling like you’re being chased away. Once you’ve ordered, they won’t bother you – which means you might have to work to hail them and pay your check!

Sometimes, if your waiter is going off shift, he may ask you to settle your bill, but you can still linger without a problem.

3. People-watching is a sport.

You may notice that if you grab a table outdoors, you won’t be facing your dining companion. Most café tables in Paris are set with both chairs facing the street, both freeing up sidewalk space for those who need to walk past and providing café-goers ample opportunity to watch the passers-by! So sit back, relax, and soak up this all-too-Parisian past time.