Top 3 Things to Do in February in Paris

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about this month.

1. Trying a New Michelin-Starred Restaurant

The new Michelin guide was published in January, and with 18 new one-star and two new two-star restaurants in the capital, there are more than a handful of places we’d love to try (and a few, like Frenchie and Racines, that we’d love to go back to!) While dining at a Michelin-starred establishment can certainly be an investment, it’s also an experience that’s well worth the heftier bill. A bit of local advice? Try going at lunch, when the check won’t be quite as pricey but the food will be just as delicious.

2. Seeing a Street Art Train

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On February 2nd, an art installation that has already seen success in Poland, Austria, and Germany will be coming to Paris – to Gare de l’Est, to be precise. The graffitied train is the longest mobile street art piece ever created and will be hanging out on Parisian tracks all day on Saturday. With two new cars tagged by local street artists, this installation is intended to draw attention to transportation’s effect on the climate.

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3. Immersing Yourself in Van Gogh

Following the enormous success of the Atelier des Lumières’ Klimt exhibit, the immersive space is inviting France’s favorite Dutchman, Vincent Van Gogh, to be its next star. Beginning on February 22, Van Gogh’s most famous paintings will be accompanied by sound and light installations for a 35-minute immersive experience that promises to be something very special.

Gain skip-the-line access to this and other exhibits as part of our no-stress turn-key trips!

Top 3 Places to Warm Up in France

While the song claims that Paris is still lovable in the winter drizzle, sometimes, you just want to get warm! Luckily, even if you’re based in Paris, there are a number of spots in France you can go to get a little bit warmer this winter. Here are three of our favorites.

1. Bordeaux

Ever since the TGV line from Paris to Bordeaux launched in 2017, this southwestern wine region is just over three hours away from the French capital. Bordeaux often boasts better wintertime weather than Paris, and tasting some delicious grand crus will warm you up in no time.

2. Savoie

On the French border with Switzerland, you’ll find Savoie, home to snow-crested peaks and tons of winter ski bunnies. While Savoie is quite a bit colder than Paris, there’s nothing to assuage the winter chill better than a cozy chalet with a roaring fire (and a bubbling pot of fondue!)

3. Normandy

Those familiar with the Normandy coast may be scratching their heads at this suggestion: after all, Normandy is renowned for its rain! But just a few hours from Paris, Normandy is home to quite a few world-class spas, including the thermal springs of Bagnoles-de-l’Orne. It may be drizzly outside, but you’ll be pampered inside!

Top image by Ezra Comeau-Jeffrey on Unsplash

Decoding Café Menus (Or, Why You Should Never Order a Café Au Lait!)

Visiting a Parisian café is a time-honored tradition, but Americans may be surprised that it’s not as simple as ordering just a “coffee.” There are many different options on a café’s menu, and things can quickly get confusing. Luckily, we’re here to help!

The Simple: Le Café

The most basic option on any café menu is un café. While the term directly translates to “a coffee,” Americans might know it better as “an espresso.” Short, dark, and bitter, le café is the cheapest item on most café menus, usually costing about 2 euro at most Parisian cafés.

Your typical café can be modified in a few ways:

  • Un serré – literally, a “tight” (coffee), is a shorter espresso. It will be richer and darker than your run-of-the-mill café.
  • Un allongé – literally, a “long” (coffee), is a longer espresso. It will be slightly weaker than most French coffees. Cafés will either serve this to you as is or, sometimes, as a regular coffee with a pitcher of hot water, so that you can dilute your coffee as you like.
  • Un américain – literally, an “American,” is an even longer coffee, similar to an Americano.

Level Two: Milk

Coffee with milk is traditionally a breakfast item in France, and while most Americans are keen to order a café au lait, you’ll only find this option on the most touristy of menus. Here are your choices if you’d like a touch of milk:

  • Un noisette – literally, a “hazelnut,” has no nuts added! It’s an espresso with a dollop of foamed milk, similar to a macchiato. It’s also the only milky coffee that most French people would consider drinking past breakfast.
  • Un crème – literally, a “cream,” is what most people are thinking of when they order a café au lait. Similar to a latte, a crème is made by topping espresso with steamed milk and a touch of foam. Most cafés will offer both a grand crème (with more milk) and a petit crème (with less milk).

Cappuccino, Filter, Flat White, Oh My!

Expats have been present on Paris’ coffee scene for a number of years now, so it’s not uncommon to find coffee shops and coffee houses offering Italian, American, or Australian coffee specialties like cappuccinos, filter coffee, or flat whites. You’ll rarely see any of these options in a typical French café.

Sit, Stand, or Go?

Most Americans are used to grabbing their coffee to go, but this mindset has not really been adopted by the French, who far prefer to sit and enjoy their coffee for an hour (or two!) If you want a really French experience, linger over your coffee. You won’t be given the side-eye by your waiter, and you can stay as long as you like!

If you need a faster jolt, consider the time-honored Parisian tradition of enjoying your coffee au zinc: at the bar. If you stand and order your coffee at the bar instead of pulling up a chair, you’ll usually pay even less!

If, however, you need to drink and run, there are a few places you can grab a to go coffee. Starbucks has infiltrated the city, but many bakeries also offer coffee in to go cups. You’ll also find coffee machines in all of the train stations and some major metro stops where you can have your coffee à emporter – to go!

fondue

3 Best Cheese Pulls in Paris

We know we’re not the only ones who love a good cheese pull. As the weather gets cooler, the French are digging into their favorite après-ski dishes: raclette, fondue, and aligot. And we know where to get the best of all three.

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1. Fondue

Fondue is classic wintertime fare in France and Switzerland. A bubbling pot of melted cheese thinned with a touch of wine or kirsch is set in the middle of the table, and diners dip bits of slightly stale bread into the vat to enjoy.

Most fondue joints make both this cheese fondue, known as fondue savoyarde, as well as a meatier version from Burgundy that calls for cubes of meat to be plunged into a simmering pot of oil or broth and then dipped in a variety of sauces. These classics are both on offer at Pain, Vin, Fromages, which also offers some unique spins including a Camembert fondue – not for the faint of heart!

Pain, Vin, Fromages – 3 Rue Geoffroy l’Angevin, 75004

2. Raclette

Raclette’s name comes from the verb racler, meaning “to scrape.” To enjoy it, a half-wheel of eponymous raclette cheese is placed over a hot plate, and diners periodically scrape the melted cheese onto plates of potatoes, pickles, and ham. It’s an experience as much as it is a meal, and as far as we’re concerned, there’s nowhere better to enjoy it than Chalet Savoyard. Not only is the restaurant decked out just like a traditional chalet, but the menu boasts a host of different cheese and charcuterie options, like smoked cheese or truffled ham.

Chalet Savoyard – 58 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris

3. Aligot

Two comfort food classics meet in the Cantal with aligot, a combination of mashed potatoes and decadent melted cheese. Aligot is a side dish on offer with most of the mains at Le Plomb du Cantal, where it’s made to order in a copper pot and served tableside so you can really enjoy the cheese pull before digging in!

Le Plomb du Cantal – 3 Rue de la Gaité, 75014

Top Photo by angela pham on UnsplashC

4 French Christmas Traditions That Stand Out

Christmas traditions are different around the world, and while a French Christmas may look a lot like an American one, there are a few traditions that make it stand out. Here are four of our favorites.

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1. Advent Calendars

The days leading up to Christmas are known as Advent, and in France, this period of time is celebrated with a calendar filled with chocolates, easily found in any supermarket in Paris beginning as early as late October. On every day of December leading up the the 25th, children open a window in their cardboard calendar to reveal a small chocolate, generally in a festive shape.

While some adults get a chocolate Advent calendar too, other types of calendar, including ones revealing bottles of beer instead of chocolates, have become popular in recent years.

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2. Saint Nicholas Day

Early in December, Christmas festivities begin with Saint Nicholas Day, a day derived from the tradition of Saint Nicholas, a man who lived in Turkey in the 3rd century and developed a tradition of gift-giving. In several European countries, including in France, he is commemorated each December 6th with a unique tradition.

On the eve of Saint Nicholas Day, children leave their shoes by the hearth before they go to bed. In the morning, their shoes are filled with coins and sometimes small toys or clementines.

This tradition is especially popular in Northeastern France, where delicious gingerbread cookies in the shape of the original Saint Nick are baked and sold.

3. Christmas Eve

Whereas for most American families, the big holiday is the 25th, in France, the biggest Christmas party takes place on a day when many Americans are still at work: the 24th.

The big Christmas dinner usually takes place on Christmas Eve in France, and some families even exchange gifts on the 24th as well.

What you’ll eat depends a lot on where you live. Many French families roast a turkey with all the trimmings. In Provence, it’s not uncommon to serve fish, followed by a 13-piece traditional Christmas dessert featuring nuts, dried fruits, and marzipan.

4. Epiphany

Most folks don’t know that when we sing about the “12 days of Christmas,” the countdown actually starts on Christmas. The culmination is on January 6th: Epiphany. Traditionally celebrated as the day when the three wise men arrived at the birth of Jesus, in secular France, it’s mainly a day for yet another food-fueled celebration, this time, with a very specific cake known as a galette des rois.

Galettes are puff pastry rounds stuffed with almond paste and a small fève, a porcelain figurine that gets its name from having once been a dried fava bean. The cake is sliced, and the youngest guest sits beneath the table to decide who gets each piece. The person with the fève in his or her slice is crowned king!

pharmacy

5 Secret Beauty Gems to Uncover at Parisian Pharmacies

It took us a while to understand the beauty of the French pharmacy. Distinct from the American drugstore, the pharmacy is not where you go to buy basic shampoo or a bag of chips (we learned that the hard way, after finding no snacks in sight and paying a pretty penny for the cheapest chapstick). Rather, the pharmacy is a place to seek out prescription medications, holistic or homeopathic remedies, and the very best of French beauty products.

It’s no surprise to us that beauty bloggers have jumped on the French beauty product bandwagon – the variety and quality truly are staggering. If you too want to discover the best that French pharmacies have to offer, here are a few items that might find their way into our suitcases and into the Christmas stockings of our loved ones this holiday season!

1. Klorane Dry Shampoo

Ever wondered how Parisiennes always seem to look like they had time to do their hair, even first thing in the morning? Many rely on Klorane, a dry shampoo we absolutely love for those days you’re dashing out the door. It doesn’t leave a residue and has a super pleasant smell. Perhaps best of all, they make one just for brunettes!

2. Bioderma Makeup Remover

This product is so popular it’s said that a bottle is sold every two seconds! This non-rinse makeup remover works wonders, easily wiping away even the most stubborn of water-proof mascaras while remaining gentle on your skin. We love the dry and sensitive skin versions in this line for daily use!

3. Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse

This golden oil can be applied on hair, skin, nails, or face – anywhere you need a bit more moisture and a natural glow. Made with six all-natural plant-based sources of Vitamin E, this oil repairs your cells without leaving a greasy residue behind.

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4. Caudalie Face-Lifting Cream

Caudalie unites two of our favorite French products: skincare and wine. This line of beauty products is based on “vinotherapy,” the idea that grapes, grapevines, and grapeseeds contain the antioxidants necessary to give your skin a youthful, healthy appearance. In fact, the brand’s name comes from a wine term for the time a wine’s flavors linger on the palate after tasting. The brand’s face-lifting cream contains a patented combination of resveratrol and hyaluronic acid, clinically proven to increase your skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid up to three times.

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5. La Roche Posay Ultra Light Face Sunscreen

La Roche Posay is the brand to beat for high-quality, high-SPF sunscreen that offers great protection without ever being greasy or sticky. This little tube specifically developed for the face offers SPF 50 protection and is particularly easy on sensitive skin around the eyes.

Top Image: Thesupermat

The Insider’s Scoop on the Paris Protests

Following the past few weekends of “Yellow Vest” protests, a number of people have been asking us, not just if we’re OK in Paris (we are!) but also if it’s safe to come here. The short answer is yes!

When protests like these take place, news coverage can often lead to misinformation or a distorted view of the facts. The reality is there were a few protests confined to a small area of the city, and it has been relatively easy to steer clear of them. Protesting is part and parcel of French culture and has been since the French Revolution, and while these protests have been tied to more destruction than most (a complicated relationship we’ll get into a bit more below), there’s no need to worry about the safety of any friends or family traveling to Paris. The city is well and ready to welcome you – and even better, it’s all dressed up for the holidays!

If you’re interested in knowing more about what’s been going on in Paris, however, here’s the insider scoop.

Why Are People Protesting?

As a Socialist country in the largely capitalist West, France walks the fine line between encouraging economic growth and providing rights for its employees. And while some draw comparisons (however flimsy) to the 18th and 19th century French Revolutions, the act of protest is deeply rooted in French culture, especially when people feel their rights are being threatened.

The “Yellow Vest” demonstrations first began as a protest against an increased fuel tax on the part of working class people who already struggle to make ends meet. Over the last few weeks, the movement has expanded to highlight other issues facing France: an ever-deepening wage gap, recent tax cuts for the rich, unemployment, and low economic growth over the past decade.

What’s it Like in Paris?

The French have the constitutional right to protest, which they have long used liberally. It’s not infrequent to witness demonstrations in Paris, usually on Saturdays confined to the city’s largest squares, like Place de la République.

The past few Saturdays, protesters have been assembling instead in ritzy neighborhoods of Paris, such as along the Champs-Elysées, wearing the yellow vests that all are required to keep in their cars in case of emergencies. While the protests have been largely peaceful, there have been some cases of people (who are not necessarily associated with the movement) resorting to acts of vandalism. The news media has been conflating these images with images of the protesters, leading many people – both in France and abroad – to come to the erroneous conclusion that this is a violent protest.

What Does This Mean for Visitors?

Paris is a safe place to live and visit, even during the protests. Most inconveniences can be avoided simply by staying away from the areas where protests are taking place and not engaging with (or photographing!) protesters.

Inconveniences linked to the protest have been confined to protest days – namely, Saturdays. On the past few Saturdays, as a precautionary measure, the city of Paris has closed a handful of metro lines and stations, mainly near the Champs-Elysées, Opera house, and République. In addition, last Saturday, the city of Paris decided to shut certain museums and monuments for the day and encouraged small businesses not to open. The city has been posting monument closures and other information on its website to minimize the effects on people’s daily lives.

While there have certainly been some instances of vandalism, for the most part, these demonstrations have been relatively peaceful, and they have not stopped Parisians from getting on with our lives – or visitors to Paris from enjoying the city.

So please come pay us a visit – we’d love to show you around!

notre dame

Top 5 Things to Do in December in Paris

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! In keeping with the holiday spirit, here are the five things we’re most excited about for this month.

1. Christmas Windows at the Department Stores

Paris is home to several grands magasins, gorgeous department stores that are far more than a mere shopping experience. The Galeries Lafayette is known for the beautiful Piaget Christmas tree in its rotunda, while Printemps is now home to one of our favorite places to grab a quick bite to eat: Printemps du Goût, on the top floor of the gorgeous 19th century building.

To celebrate Christmas, these stores have inaugurated their annual holiday windows: at Galeries Lafayette, the designs were made in part by children from 5 to 11 years old, who were invited to draw their Christmas heroes and see them transformed into stuffed puppets. At Printemps, meanwhile, the windows were developed in association with luxury brand Maison Boucheron to evoke the “Magical World of Father Christmas.”

While not in the same neighborhood, don’t miss the windows at BHV, which boast a Mary Poppins Christmas theme this year and have proven to be our personal favorites of 2018! (It’s also not far from one of our favorite hot chocolates in Paris – a secret spot at the Jardins du Marais hotel. (Discover some of our other chocolatey faves on our Sweet Tooth in Saint-Germain tour.)

2. Ice Skating at the Grand Palais

The ornate Grand Palais is transformed into a patinoire for skating every year beginning just before Christmas. This year, the indoor Grand Palais des Glaces invites you to skate on the largest ice rink in the world from December 16 to January 9. Grab tickets online for skip-the-line access to daytime skating and nighttime shows!

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3. Christmas Concerts

We’re huge fans of Christmas music, and so is our adopted city! Paris really pulls out all the stops at the holidays with concerts at some of its most beautiful Gothic churches, from Saint-Sulpice to Eglise Saint-Roch to the Madeleine. We’re particularly looking forward to the annual Christmas concert at Notre-Dame Cathedral – there’s really nothing like it for getting into the spirit of Christmas!

4. Illuminated Species at the Jardin des Plantes

If you’re traveling with kids (or any fans of animals!) a visit to the Jardin des Plantes to see a variety of animal-themed illuminations. This nighttime walk inspires wonder and awe as you glimpse pandas and turtles and even walk through an enormous illuminated shark’s mouth! Check out the real thing at the menagerie right next door.

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5. The Last Month of the Klimt Exhibit

We’ve heard nothing but raves about the Gustav Klimt exhibit currently on display at the Atelier des Lumières. For this unique experience, the works of the Viennese artist are projected and set to music, for an immersive experience unlike any other. Given its popularity, this exhibit has been extended through January, so now’s the time to go – before it’s too late!

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Top 5 Christmas Markets to Peruse in Paris this Holiday Season

Throughout Europe, the tradition of the Christmas market is alive and well, but the further north and east you go, the more traditions you’ll find. Paris, however, despite its central location, boasts several great Christmas markets. Some are more charming than others, so to save you the trouble of seeking out the best, here are our five faves this holiday season.

1. Most Nordic – “Un Noël à Norvège,” December 1-2

This small market near the Opera building is inspired by a Norwegian Christmas atmosphere. For two days only, this little market will introduce visitors to Norwegian culinary specialties and artisanal products ranging from knitwear to eco-design. This market also boasts a Christmas concert both days at 4pm.

Eléphant Paname, 10 rue Volney, Paris 2nd

2. Most Traditional – Alsatian Christmas Market, December 5-21

Paris’ famous Alsatian Christmas market is appropriately located just outside Gare de l’Est, where trains depart for eastern France. This 37-year-old market is the ideal place to try some of the most traditional elements of a Alsatian Christmas, including pain d’épices (French gingerbread), kougelhopf (a brioche-like cake studded with raisins), and goose foie gras – a must for any French Christmas celebration.

Place du 11 Novembre, Paris 11th

3. Most Charming – Montmartre, December 1-31

Is there any neighborhood more charming than Montmartre? This beautiful Christmas market is located just steps from Sacré Coeur basilica, boasting 70 wooden chalets selling everything from ornaments and baubles to candy to a classic of French winters, vin chaud (hot mulled wine). Pay it a visit on your own, or let us take you there as part of our Secret Montmartre tour!

Parvis du Sacré Coeur, Paris 18th

4. Most Picturesque – Notre Dame, December 14-23

Is there anything more beautiful than strolling through a Christmas market overlooking the Gothic Notre Dame Cathedral and its immense Christmas tree? This market is smaller than some, but the view – and the emphasis on small, local artisans – makes this marché one of our all-time favorites.

Square René Viviani, Paris 5th

5. Most Kid-Friendly – Tuileries, November 24-January 6

The Tuileries Christmas market boasts not only stalls and typical Christmas goodies, but also rides for the little ones, including a gorgeous Ferris Wheel with fantastic views over the city. Consider paying it a visit before or after a kid-friendly tour through the Louvre museum, just a few steps away!

Jardin des Tuileries, Paris 1st

Top image: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra

Top 5 French Comfort Foods to Enjoy this Winter

Comfort food doesn’t look the same in all countries. In France, it translates to a lot of melted cheese and a lot of rich wine sauces, as in classic dishes boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin. Here are just five of our favorites.

1. French Onion Soup

Also known as soupe à l’oignon gratinée, this classic bistro dish of onion soup topped with a crouton of bread and mounds of melted emmental cheese is often served at French weddings to help guests overcome the large quantities of wine they’ve consumed! Our favorite in Paris is the classic at Au Pied de Cochon, open 24-hours a day and one of the original Les Halles area classics to serve this dish in the capital.

2. tartiflette

Visit any Christmas market, and you’ll surely encounter tartiflette, a dish from the Savoie region made with potatoes, garlic, onions, cream, and tons of melted Reblochon cheese. While locals would love you to believe this homey dish is a time-tested classic, it was actually invented in the 1980s!

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3. Aligot

In keeping with the cheese-and-potato theme, aligot, a specialty from Cantal, unites rich cheese and mashed potatoes for a moreish side usually served with sausages. Our favorite in Paris can be found at l’Ambassade d’Auvergne.

4. Boeuf Bourguignon

Combine a homey beef stew and the rich flavor of Burgundy wine, and you have beef bourguignon, one of our favorite dishes for a cold winter’s evening. This slow-cooked dish is particularly marvelous at Café des Musées, where it’s served with a buttery mound of mashed potatoes.

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5. Hot Chocolate

On the sweeter side of things, hot chocolate is always a welcome way to warm up. No one does it better than Angelina, where the African Hot Chocolate is closer to a cup of melted chocolat than a cup of hot cocoa. You won’t hear us complaining!

Top image care of Hotel du Vin