5 Spots to See Autumn Colors in Paris

There’s perhaps nothing more beautiful than the bright yellows, oranges, and reds of a Parisian autumn. Standing out against the city’s beige limestone façade, these hues seem all the more vibrant. Here are five of our all-time favorite places to encounter them this season!

 

1. Montmartre

The quaint former village of Montmartre is crawling with vines (pun absolutely intended). Not only does the neighborhood play host to its very own vineyard, but ivy can be found all along the narrow streets that dot this picturesque bit of Parisian paradise. Let us show you around this beautiful neighborhood (and show you all the best spots to spot these autumnal colors).

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2. La Petite Ceinture

Before New York had the high line, Paris had la petite ceinture and the promenade plantée, converted sections of the former railroad line leading posh Parisians to the Bois de Vincennes. Today, both the promenade plantée near Bastille and the petite ceinture to the south of the city boast some beautiful views of fall foliage.

3. Jardin des Tuileries

You don’t have to meander far from central Paris to enjoy fall colors. The Tuileries Gardens, just adjacent to the Louvre, boast some beautiful foliage. The garden is planted in a traditionally symmetrical French style; we love the way that this creates gorgeous vistas with the former palace in the background!

4. Bois de Boulogne

Just outside the city of Paris proper sits the Bois de Boulogne, a haven for those looking for a touch of nature in Paris. Formerly part of the royal hunting grounds, today, the Bois de Boulogne is home to walking trails and beautiful views of Paris (including the Iron Lady herself!)

5. Quais de Seine

Walking along the Seine River is one of our favorite Parisian experiences any time of year, but it’s particularly beautiful in fall. This view of the Institut de France from the famous Pont des Arts is part of our Paris Highlights tour and is one of our favorites for enjoying the colors of the season.

Top image: Valerii Tkachenko

What’s the Deal with Beaujolais Nouveau?

The third Thursday of November, the French celebrate Beaujolais – but not just any Beaujolais.

Beaujolais is a wine region in the northern Rhone Valley known particularly for its red wines (which make up 97% of the region’s production). But since the 80s, Beaujolais has been particularly well known for its nouveau or new wines, which are sold only months after being made.

Here are three things we think you need to know about this wine.

1. It’s Not the Only Nouveau wine.

While France makes a big deal of Beaujolais nouveau, it’s not the only wine that’s made in this style. Young wines that are sold within months of being made are also known as primeurs, and almost every region has them. It’s just that the Beaujolais markets them particularly well: since the 50s, Beaujolais is required by law to be released on a specific day of the year (fixed as the third Thursday of November in the 80s), so its release can naturally coincide with a big party!

2. It’s an acquired taste.

Beaujolais nouveau is not everyone’s cup of tea (or glass of wine, as the case may be). It tends to be quite fruity, and many compare its flavor to that of banana candy (a lot like banana Runts!) That said, it’s quite easy to drink, as it has no real tannins to speak of and is about 12% alcohol, as compared to some southern reds that can range from 12.5 to 14%.

3. It’s Not the Only Beaujolais.

The Beaujolais region produces several other red wines aside from Beaujolais nouveau, including Beaujolais-Villages and Beaujolais-Supérieur. These wines are quite distinct from Beaujolais nouveau, with a more balanced fruitiness stemming from the predominantly Gamay grapes used.

Next week, take advantage of Beaujolais Nouveau Day to discover both Beaujolais nouveau and other Beaujolais wines – in Paris or elsewhere!

Top 3 Things to Do in Paris in November

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about for this month.

1. Celebrating Beaujolais Nouveau

The third Thursday of November is time for celebrating the very first primeurs, the first wines of the year. The first region to release its primeurs is the Beaujolais, where fruity Gamays make for easy fall drinking. Pretty much every bar and café in Paris will have a few bottles of this wine on-hand to enjoy, but here are some of our favorites:

Find out more in this month’s newsletter; there’s still time to subscribe!

2. Discovering Renoir (Father and Son) at the Musée d’Orsay

It’s hard to decide which of Pierre-Auguste or Jean Renoir is the more famous: the father was one of the founding fathers of the Impressionist movement, while the son was an illustrious artist of the screen. Both are being featured at the Musée d’Orsay through January, and we’re excited to see how the museum (recently voted the world’s best) is going to do these great men justice.

3. Enjoying a New Chocolate Bar in the Marais

Summertime in Paris is all about where to find the best sidewalk terrasse, but it turns out you can also enjoy sitting outside in wintertime, thanks to the Marais’ Jardins du Marais hotel. Starting on November 9, the hotel is inviting the pastry masterminds behind Hugo & Victor to create a chocolate wonderland in its private courtyard. Pull up a chair and enjoy the heated terrace complete with twinkle lights and chocolate creations ranging from macarons to waffles to hot chocolate.

3 Lesser-Known Wine Regions to Sample While in Paris

Paris isn’t known for being a particularly great wine region (though there are a few vineyards in the city, including an historic one in Montmartre!) That said, Paris can be a fantastic place for discovering wine from all over France.

For many in the States, French wine boils down to a few regions: the tannic, robust reds of Bordeaux; the silky pinots of Burgundy; sparkling Champagne; white Sancerre from the Loire Valley. But there are other regions of France to uncover  – here are some of our favorites.

1. The Languedoc

This Southern French region suffered a poor reputation for years, but today, it’s one of our favorites, producing full-bodied reds that benefit from hotter, longer summers. Most wines in the Languedoc are made from an assemblage or blend of grapes: common varietals include carignan, syrah, mourvèdre, and grenache.

Try the natural wines from Marc Barriot or Fitou from Caves Mont Tauch for two distinctive but equally delicious iterations of this wine region.

2. Beaujolais

For many, Beaujolais is associated only with Beaujolais nouveau, the primeur wine released every third Thursday of November. But this slightly sweet, uncomplex bottle is more a marketing ploy than a real wine, and it unfortunately obscures the reputation of the delicious Beaujolais-Villages wines made in this region.

Beaujolais permits just one red wine grape – gamay – which is known for being relatively low in tannins, with a fruity flavor reminiscent of blackcurrant. A peppery finish is a common characteristic of these wines.

Try the organic wines from Maison Leynes for a Beaujolais experience you won’t soon forget.

3. Auvergne

The Auvergnat wine region suffered greatly during the two World Wars, but it has since rebuilt to become better than ever.  With only three permitted varietals – gamay, pinot noir, and chardonnay – Auvergne manages to create complex wines thanks in large part to its volcanic soil.

Try the natural wines from Patrick Bouju at Domaine la Bohème to taste this complexity for yourself!

How to Be Smarter Than A Parisian Pickpocket

It’s time to talk about an unfortunate reality in Paris… pickpockets.

With sights like the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and Sacré Coeur drawing visitors – and their cameras, wallets, and passports – to the city, it’s no wonder that Paris has its share of scammers. Luckily, it’s fairly easy to avoid them, if you know what you’re looking for. Here are a few of the most common scams we’ve seen around the city – and our insider’s tips for avoiding them!

1. The Petitions

Around the Eiffel Tower, specifically, you’ll often see young women approaching you, holding out clipboards with pencils and asking if you speak English. When you sign these petitions, the young women will ask for a “donation” – and inform you that they don’t accept less than 10 euro. Not only is this a scam, but sometimes, while you’re signing, a colleague (another woman or a small child) might try to pick your pockets.

The Solution: Loudly and assertively say, “No!” This lets them know you are aware of the scam, and they’ll leave you be; if you’re too loud, after all, you might scare off their other “customers.”

2. The Rings (and the Friendship Bracelets)

This scam tends to pop up as you’re crossing bridges in Paris. A gentleman will lean down and pick up something shiny – a ring! He’ll offer it to you, insisting you take it, and if you do, he’ll insist you also pay him for it.

A similar scam, this time with friendship bracelets, also happens near Montmartre.

The Solution: Once again, loudly and assertively say, “No!” and walk away. They’ll seek out someone else, rather than follow you.

3. The Fellow Lost Tourists

You’re sitting at a sidewalk café, and someone walks up with a map. Holding it out in front of you, they ask if you can let them know where they are… and by the time they leave, your phone or wallet are gone too.

The Solution: Don’t leave phones and wallets on the table, especially when you’re sitting outside. Always place them in a pocket or bag, and loop the strap of the bag through your foot or the leg of a table or chair.

4. The Sly Subway Exit

You’re sitting on a strapontin, one of the flip-down seats on the metro, near the doors. As you scroll through your Instagram feed, someone stands near you, getting ready to exit. The doors open; the stranger remains on the train… and just as the alarm sounds letting everyone know the doors are about to close, he slips your phone right out of your hand and exits behind the slamming doors.

The Solution: Avoid using your phone when seated on the strapontins, or invest in a phone ring holder that allows you to keep your phone in your hand, where it belongs.

5. The Shell Game

You’re walking past a crowd of people looking at a gentleman running a shell game. Someone bets 50 euro… and wins! You throw down your own 50 and lose, because the man who won was actually a cohort.

The Solution: Walk away from the shell game, and spend your 50 on a lovely dinner instead.

These scams may make Paris seem like a scary place, but it really isn’t! Being aware of these unfortunate situations helps you avoid them, making the time you spend in the city so much more pleasant.

La Rentrée: Back to School (and Life!) in Paris

Living in France has some major perks – and it’s not just the exquisite wine and food! France is home to free education for all, inexpensive cultural activities, and a nationwide standard of five weeks of paid vacation per year. This means that, as we’ve previously noted, August in France (and particularly in Paris) is famously empty; it also means that early September is filled with new activity… and not just for students.

While early September certainly means most kids are heading back to school, la rentrée or “the return” isn’t just for young-uns. Here are three ways that Paris is welcoming la rentrée for all Parisians, young and old.

1. Restaurants Are Reopening

Many of our favorite restaurants closed their doors for a much-deserved holiday in August. But now that September has rolled around, they’re reopening – often featuring an updated seasonal menu and tons of new dishes to try. We’re super excited for our favorites like Martin, Ellsworth, and Racines to be back, among others!

2. New Books are Being Published

La rentrée doesn’t just mean new school notebooks. This is also the season for new novels: hundreds are released in September every year.

In 2018, France is expecting a whopping 567 new books to hit the shelves, so we’ll be hitting up some of our favorite independent bookshops in the Latin Quarter like L’Ecume des Pages (just a step from the historic Café des Deux Magots, where Hemingway used to hang) or Shakespeare and Company to page through all the new releases.

3. Folks are Setting New Resolutions

We’ve always felt that September is a far better time for setting resolutions than January, and the French tend to agree with us. Now that summer has ended, it’s really the prime time for setting goals, be they jogging around the Luxembourg Gardens a few times a week, testing a new restaurant that’s been on your must-try list, or learning a new language.

If you want to get in on the fun of la rentrée at home,why not set a goal yourself? Visiting Paris this year is a great one!

picnic

5 Essentials for the Perfect Parisian Picnic

Summer’s almost over, so with just a few fair-weather days left to enjoy, we’re heading to one of our favorite picnic spots to soak up the last of the sun. As for what we’re packing in  our baskets…  here are the five essentials we always have.

1. Baguette

It’s not a picnic without this most emblematic of French breads. The long, skinny loaf’s name actually means “stick” (and is also used to say “wand,” so Harry Potter had a magic baguette in French!) Not all baguettes are created alike, so seek out only the very best: a former winner of the “Best Baguette in Paris” contest is always a good bet!

2. Wine

While public intoxication is certainly illegal in France, public drinking is not! It’s not uncommon to see folks sitting in a park enjoying a glass of wine or a bottle of beer. Just don’t forget cups and a corkscrew!

3. Rillettes

Rillettes are one of our favorite charcuteries to bring along on a picnic. This spread of shredded meat (often duck) combined with fat is delicious slathered on bread, and it’s sold in most supermarkets in an easy-to-transport tub!

4. Cheese

Is a picnic really Parisian if there’s no cheese? Some easy-to-transport varieties include Camembert and Saint-Marcellin, both of which are sold in a handy container perfect for setting on your picnic blanket (or on the ground).

5. Pastry

Don’t forget about dessert! Most pâtisseries will box up your pastry selection for easy transport, making this the perfect choice for a picnic dessert. Discover some of our favorites with our pastry tour!

Bonus: The Emergency Picnic

Paris sunshine is famously fickle, so when we’re suddenly blessed with a sunny day, speed is occasionally of the essence. That’s when our favorite boulangerie becomes our best friend: local bakeries make fresh sandwiches to offer every single day. The classic Parisien is simple ham-and-butter, and it’s a delicious, truly Parisian treat.

The Real French Kiss: All About ‘La Bise’

We’ve all seen those European air kisses that some people do when they greet each other in the States, but in France, la bise isn’t a rarity: it’s the norm. Generally speaking, any ‘hello’ or ‘goodbye’ involving a woman (and sometimes, greetings between men who are particularly close) involve brushing your cheeks against those of your interlocutor. And to make things even more complicated… it’s not done the same way throughout France.

How to Bise

Giving the bise is generally done by brushing your cheeks against the cheeks of your interlocutor and kissing the air simultaneously. However, the rules change a bit for children: if you’re greeting a child, you’ll let the child actually plant a kiss on your cheek before doing the same!

(Some close friends will also opt for this style of bise, but it’s best to err on the side of air-kissing).

One thing’s for sure: unlike in the States, contact is made with the other person’s cheek.

How Many Kisses?

Depending on the region where you are, the number of kisses involved in the bise will range from two to four:

  • In Paris, as well as in some other major cities like Bordeaux and Toulouse, two kisses are the norm.
  • In the South, particularly near Marseille and Montpellier, as well as in the North, near Lille, people have a preference for three kisses.
  • In western France, meanwhile, near Nantes, four kisses are given (that’s a lot!)

Which Side?

To make things even more complex, not all regions start their kisses on the same side. Not knowing which side to lean to first can certainly lead to some awkward moments!

  • In the north of France (including Paris), turning to the right/droite (so brushing left cheeks first) is the norm.
  • In the south, however, people turn to the left/gauche (and brush right cheeks first).

A Bit of Bise Etiquette

There are a few times where you won’t want to bise:

  • If you’re ill. Because the bise can spread germs, if you’re under the weather, let people know!
  • If you’re meeting someone in a business scenario. Here, a handshake is preferable.

With all of these rules, there are often some faux pas. If you’ve ever had a bise blunder, be sure to share the story with us on Facebook!

Paris Plages: A Summertime Must-See!

Braving the heat during a Parisian summer can be tough, but there is one place you can cool down: the Parisian beach!

I know what you’re thinking: Paris is landlocked. And while the city hasn’t undergone any topographical magic, since the creation of Paris Plages in 2002, you can indeed go to the beach, even in the city.

What’s Paris Plages?

Paris Plages is a series of beach-like installations along the Seine River and the Bassin de la Villette. These free installations feature chaise lounges, misters, sun umbrellas, and sports activities. (There used to even be sand!)

Paris Plages 2018 is open until September 2, and it’s totally free for anyone to access.

Where’s Paris Plages?

There are two different Paris Plages areas: one in central Paris along the Seine, and the other in the 19th, at la Villette.

Image care of Praia

Quais de Seine

The first extends from the Pont de Solferino to the Pont Alexandre III on the Left Bank and from the Pont de Sully to Pont Neuf on the Right Bank. Pulling up a chaise lounge on this portion of Paris Plages allows you to take in historic monuments like the Louvre and Notre Dame, not to mention the River Seine flowing at your feet.

While there’s no swimming here, there are activities like foosball, mini-golf, and even ballroom dancing – and there are misters all around in case you need to cool down.

Image care of Lionel Allorge

Bassin de la Villette

If you can’t imagine the beach without swimming, however, the Bassin de la Villette is the place to be. Here, swimming pools have been installed in the Canal de l’Ourcq, providing the perfect spot to take a dip and cool down.

Chaise lounges, lockers, and changing rooms are at your disposal, and lifeguards watch over the different swimming areas during opening hours.

Once you’ve had a dip, take advantage of the board games, paddle boats, and even a zip line with exquisite views over the Canal itself!

Top image Ken Eckert

canal saint martin

It’s August in Paris – Where Are All the Parisians?

If you’re visiting Paris this month, you may be surprised to see that there are very few locals lolling about. Cafés, shops, and restaurants have shuttered, with possibly a sign in the window indicating that their staff will be back come September.

This isn’t a Purge situation, but rather a regular Parisian tradition of les grandes vacances, or “the big holiday.” Since most French people get a full five weeks of paid vacation, a large portion of Parisians flee the capital for the entire month of August, and that includes some of our favorite fromagers, restaurateurs, and barmen.

That said, don’t believe for just one minute that you’ll be encountering a total wasteland when you arrive in Paris in août. Here are some of our favorite things to do in a Paris sans Parisians.

1. Visit Paris’ Museums

The Parisians may be gone, but Paris’ museums won’t be shutting their doors. Enjoy a wander through the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, or Catacombs and take in Paris’ past.

2. Eat AT Some Great Restaurants

Many Parisian restaurants will close their doors in August, but that isn’t the case for all of them! Here are a few of our favorite restaurants that will be remaining open this summer:

If you need help finding a restaurant (or planning the rest of your trip!) consider letting Paris Uncovered help you plan your trip!

3. Take Advantage of Paris’ Summer ACtivities

Paris in summertime is filled with fun things to see and do. Not only will many of the parks be empty enough for you to take advantage of the free seating at the Tuileries or the centuries-old pushboats at the Luxembourg gardens, but you can also:

Share your favorite summer activities with Paris Uncovered via Facebook and Instagram!