4 French Christmas Traditions That Stand Out

Christmas traditions are different around the world, and while a French Christmas may look a lot like an American one, there are a few traditions that make it stand out. Here are four of our favorites.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrykyW2H_Ka/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

1. Advent Calendars

The days leading up to Christmas are known as Advent, and in France, this period of time is celebrated with a calendar filled with chocolates, easily found in any supermarket in Paris beginning as early as late October. On every day of December leading up the the 25th, children open a window in their cardboard calendar to reveal a small chocolate, generally in a festive shape.

While some adults get a chocolate Advent calendar too, other types of calendar, including ones revealing bottles of beer instead of chocolates, have become popular in recent years.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrCVcQ1FYY8/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

2. Saint Nicholas Day

Early in December, Christmas festivities begin with Saint Nicholas Day, a day derived from the tradition of Saint Nicholas, a man who lived in Turkey in the 3rd century and developed a tradition of gift-giving. In several European countries, including in France, he is commemorated each December 6th with a unique tradition.

On the eve of Saint Nicholas Day, children leave their shoes by the hearth before they go to bed. In the morning, their shoes are filled with coins and sometimes small toys or clementines.

This tradition is especially popular in Northeastern France, where delicious gingerbread cookies in the shape of the original Saint Nick are baked and sold.

3. Christmas Eve

Whereas for most American families, the big holiday is the 25th, in France, the biggest Christmas party takes place on a day when many Americans are still at work: the 24th.

The big Christmas dinner usually takes place on Christmas Eve in France, and some families even exchange gifts on the 24th as well.

What you’ll eat depends a lot on where you live. Many French families roast a turkey with all the trimmings. In Provence, it’s not uncommon to serve fish, followed by a 13-piece traditional Christmas dessert featuring nuts, dried fruits, and marzipan.

4. Epiphany

Most folks don’t know that when we sing about the “12 days of Christmas,” the countdown actually starts on Christmas. The culmination is on January 6th: Epiphany. Traditionally celebrated as the day when the three wise men arrived at the birth of Jesus, in secular France, it’s mainly a day for yet another food-fueled celebration, this time, with a very specific cake known as a galette des rois.

Galettes are puff pastry rounds stuffed with almond paste and a small fève, a porcelain figurine that gets its name from having once been a dried fava bean. The cake is sliced, and the youngest guest sits beneath the table to decide who gets each piece. The person with the fève in his or her slice is crowned king!

pharmacy

5 Secret Beauty Gems to Uncover at Parisian Pharmacies

It took us a while to understand the beauty of the French pharmacy. Distinct from the American drugstore, the pharmacy is not where you go to buy basic shampoo or a bag of chips (we learned that the hard way, after finding no snacks in sight and paying a pretty penny for the cheapest chapstick). Rather, the pharmacy is a place to seek out prescription medications, holistic or homeopathic remedies, and the very best of French beauty products.

It’s no surprise to us that beauty bloggers have jumped on the French beauty product bandwagon – the variety and quality truly are staggering. If you too want to discover the best that French pharmacies have to offer, here are a few items that might find their way into our suitcases and into the Christmas stockings of our loved ones this holiday season!

1. Klorane Dry Shampoo

Ever wondered how Parisiennes always seem to look like they had time to do their hair, even first thing in the morning? Many rely on Klorane, a dry shampoo we absolutely love for those days you’re dashing out the door. It doesn’t leave a residue and has a super pleasant smell. Perhaps best of all, they make one just for brunettes!

2. Bioderma Makeup Remover

This product is so popular it’s said that a bottle is sold every two seconds! This non-rinse makeup remover works wonders, easily wiping away even the most stubborn of water-proof mascaras while remaining gentle on your skin. We love the dry and sensitive skin versions in this line for daily use!

3. Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse

This golden oil can be applied on hair, skin, nails, or face – anywhere you need a bit more moisture and a natural glow. Made with six all-natural plant-based sources of Vitamin E, this oil repairs your cells without leaving a greasy residue behind.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bo61CNLFtyl/

4. Caudalie Face-Lifting Cream

Caudalie unites two of our favorite French products: skincare and wine. This line of beauty products is based on “vinotherapy,” the idea that grapes, grapevines, and grapeseeds contain the antioxidants necessary to give your skin a youthful, healthy appearance. In fact, the brand’s name comes from a wine term for the time a wine’s flavors linger on the palate after tasting. The brand’s face-lifting cream contains a patented combination of resveratrol and hyaluronic acid, clinically proven to increase your skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid up to three times.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bkcb9j6nu1l/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

5. La Roche Posay Ultra Light Face Sunscreen

La Roche Posay is the brand to beat for high-quality, high-SPF sunscreen that offers great protection without ever being greasy or sticky. This little tube specifically developed for the face offers SPF 50 protection and is particularly easy on sensitive skin around the eyes.

Top Image: Thesupermat

notre dame

Top 5 Things to Do in December in Paris

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! In keeping with the holiday spirit, here are the five things we’re most excited about for this month.

1. Christmas Windows at the Department Stores

Paris is home to several grands magasins, gorgeous department stores that are far more than a mere shopping experience. The Galeries Lafayette is known for the beautiful Piaget Christmas tree in its rotunda, while Printemps is now home to one of our favorite places to grab a quick bite to eat: Printemps du Goût, on the top floor of the gorgeous 19th century building.

To celebrate Christmas, these stores have inaugurated their annual holiday windows: at Galeries Lafayette, the designs were made in part by children from 5 to 11 years old, who were invited to draw their Christmas heroes and see them transformed into stuffed puppets. At Printemps, meanwhile, the windows were developed in association with luxury brand Maison Boucheron to evoke the “Magical World of Father Christmas.”

While not in the same neighborhood, don’t miss the windows at BHV, which boast a Mary Poppins Christmas theme this year and have proven to be our personal favorites of 2018! (It’s also not far from one of our favorite hot chocolates in Paris – a secret spot at the Jardins du Marais hotel. (Discover some of our other chocolatey faves on our Sweet Tooth in Saint-Germain tour.)

2. Ice Skating at the Grand Palais

The ornate Grand Palais is transformed into a patinoire for skating every year beginning just before Christmas. This year, the indoor Grand Palais des Glaces invites you to skate on the largest ice rink in the world from December 16 to January 9. Grab tickets online for skip-the-line access to daytime skating and nighttime shows!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BdXh4uLnt1g/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

3. Christmas Concerts

We’re huge fans of Christmas music, and so is our adopted city! Paris really pulls out all the stops at the holidays with concerts at some of its most beautiful Gothic churches, from Saint-Sulpice to Eglise Saint-Roch to the Madeleine. We’re particularly looking forward to the annual Christmas concert at Notre-Dame Cathedral – there’s really nothing like it for getting into the spirit of Christmas!

4. Illuminated Species at the Jardin des Plantes

If you’re traveling with kids (or any fans of animals!) a visit to the Jardin des Plantes to see a variety of animal-themed illuminations. This nighttime walk inspires wonder and awe as you glimpse pandas and turtles and even walk through an enormous illuminated shark’s mouth! Check out the real thing at the menagerie right next door.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bq70bjolP_5/

5. The Last Month of the Klimt Exhibit

We’ve heard nothing but raves about the Gustav Klimt exhibit currently on display at the Atelier des Lumières. For this unique experience, the works of the Viennese artist are projected and set to music, for an immersive experience unlike any other. Given its popularity, this exhibit has been extended through January, so now’s the time to go – before it’s too late!

For even more Paris news, follow us on Instagram and Facebook, and subscribe to our monthly newsletter, where you’ll get insider tips and gain access to tour discounts.

Top 5 French Comfort Foods to Enjoy this Winter

Comfort food doesn’t look the same in all countries. In France, it translates to a lot of melted cheese and a lot of rich wine sauces, as in classic dishes boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin. Here are just five of our favorites.

1. French Onion Soup

Also known as soupe à l’oignon gratinée, this classic bistro dish of onion soup topped with a crouton of bread and mounds of melted emmental cheese is often served at French weddings to help guests overcome the large quantities of wine they’ve consumed! Our favorite in Paris is the classic at Au Pied de Cochon, open 24-hours a day and one of the original Les Halles area classics to serve this dish in the capital.

2. tartiflette

Visit any Christmas market, and you’ll surely encounter tartiflette, a dish from the Savoie region made with potatoes, garlic, onions, cream, and tons of melted Reblochon cheese. While locals would love you to believe this homey dish is a time-tested classic, it was actually invented in the 1980s!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpPcs9mhTl7/

3. Aligot

In keeping with the cheese-and-potato theme, aligot, a specialty from Cantal, unites rich cheese and mashed potatoes for a moreish side usually served with sausages. Our favorite in Paris can be found at l’Ambassade d’Auvergne.

4. Boeuf Bourguignon

Combine a homey beef stew and the rich flavor of Burgundy wine, and you have beef bourguignon, one of our favorite dishes for a cold winter’s evening. This slow-cooked dish is particularly marvelous at Café des Musées, where it’s served with a buttery mound of mashed potatoes.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BgL6WC6Almj/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

5. Hot Chocolate

On the sweeter side of things, hot chocolate is always a welcome way to warm up. No one does it better than Angelina, where the African Hot Chocolate is closer to a cup of melted chocolat than a cup of hot cocoa. You won’t hear us complaining!

Top image care of Hotel du Vin

What’s the Deal with Beaujolais Nouveau?

The third Thursday of November, the French celebrate Beaujolais – but not just any Beaujolais.

Beaujolais is a wine region in the northern Rhone Valley known particularly for its red wines (which make up 97% of the region’s production). But since the 80s, Beaujolais has been particularly well known for its nouveau or new wines, which are sold only months after being made.

Here are three things we think you need to know about this wine.

1. It’s Not the Only Nouveau wine.

While France makes a big deal of Beaujolais nouveau, it’s not the only wine that’s made in this style. Young wines that are sold within months of being made are also known as primeurs, and almost every region has them. It’s just that the Beaujolais markets them particularly well: since the 50s, Beaujolais is required by law to be released on a specific day of the year (fixed as the third Thursday of November in the 80s), so its release can naturally coincide with a big party!

2. It’s an acquired taste.

Beaujolais nouveau is not everyone’s cup of tea (or glass of wine, as the case may be). It tends to be quite fruity, and many compare its flavor to that of banana candy (a lot like banana Runts!) That said, it’s quite easy to drink, as it has no real tannins to speak of and is about 12% alcohol, as compared to some southern reds that can range from 12.5 to 14%.

3. It’s Not the Only Beaujolais.

The Beaujolais region produces several other red wines aside from Beaujolais nouveau, including Beaujolais-Villages and Beaujolais-Supérieur. These wines are quite distinct from Beaujolais nouveau, with a more balanced fruitiness stemming from the predominantly Gamay grapes used.

Next week, take advantage of Beaujolais Nouveau Day to discover both Beaujolais nouveau and other Beaujolais wines – in Paris or elsewhere!

Top 3 Things to Do in Paris in November

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about for this month.

1. Celebrating Beaujolais Nouveau

The third Thursday of November is time for celebrating the very first primeurs, the first wines of the year. The first region to release its primeurs is the Beaujolais, where fruity Gamays make for easy fall drinking. Pretty much every bar and café in Paris will have a few bottles of this wine on-hand to enjoy, but here are some of our favorites:

Find out more in this month’s newsletter; there’s still time to subscribe!

2. Discovering Renoir (Father and Son) at the Musée d’Orsay

It’s hard to decide which of Pierre-Auguste or Jean Renoir is the more famous: the father was one of the founding fathers of the Impressionist movement, while the son was an illustrious artist of the screen. Both are being featured at the Musée d’Orsay through January, and we’re excited to see how the museum (recently voted the world’s best) is going to do these great men justice.

3. Enjoying a New Chocolate Bar in the Marais

Summertime in Paris is all about where to find the best sidewalk terrasse, but it turns out you can also enjoy sitting outside in wintertime, thanks to the Marais’ Jardins du Marais hotel. Starting on November 9, the hotel is inviting the pastry masterminds behind Hugo & Victor to create a chocolate wonderland in its private courtyard. Pull up a chair and enjoy the heated terrace complete with twinkle lights and chocolate creations ranging from macarons to waffles to hot chocolate.

How to Be Smarter Than A Parisian Pickpocket

It’s time to talk about an unfortunate reality in Paris… pickpockets.

With sights like the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and Sacré Coeur drawing visitors – and their cameras, wallets, and passports – to the city, it’s no wonder that Paris has its share of scammers. Luckily, it’s fairly easy to avoid them, if you know what you’re looking for. Here are a few of the most common scams we’ve seen around the city – and our insider’s tips for avoiding them!

1. The Petitions

Around the Eiffel Tower, specifically, you’ll often see young women approaching you, holding out clipboards with pencils and asking if you speak English. When you sign these petitions, the young women will ask for a “donation” – and inform you that they don’t accept less than 10 euro. Not only is this a scam, but sometimes, while you’re signing, a colleague (another woman or a small child) might try to pick your pockets.

The Solution: Loudly and assertively say, “No!” This lets them know you are aware of the scam, and they’ll leave you be; if you’re too loud, after all, you might scare off their other “customers.”

2. The Rings (and the Friendship Bracelets)

This scam tends to pop up as you’re crossing bridges in Paris. A gentleman will lean down and pick up something shiny – a ring! He’ll offer it to you, insisting you take it, and if you do, he’ll insist you also pay him for it.

A similar scam, this time with friendship bracelets, also happens near Montmartre.

The Solution: Once again, loudly and assertively say, “No!” and walk away. They’ll seek out someone else, rather than follow you.

3. The Fellow Lost Tourists

You’re sitting at a sidewalk café, and someone walks up with a map. Holding it out in front of you, they ask if you can let them know where they are… and by the time they leave, your phone or wallet are gone too.

The Solution: Don’t leave phones and wallets on the table, especially when you’re sitting outside. Always place them in a pocket or bag, and loop the strap of the bag through your foot or the leg of a table or chair.

4. The Sly Subway Exit

You’re sitting on a strapontin, one of the flip-down seats on the metro, near the doors. As you scroll through your Instagram feed, someone stands near you, getting ready to exit. The doors open; the stranger remains on the train… and just as the alarm sounds letting everyone know the doors are about to close, he slips your phone right out of your hand and exits behind the slamming doors.

The Solution: Avoid using your phone when seated on the strapontins, or invest in a phone ring holder that allows you to keep your phone in your hand, where it belongs.

5. The Shell Game

You’re walking past a crowd of people looking at a gentleman running a shell game. Someone bets 50 euro… and wins! You throw down your own 50 and lose, because the man who won was actually a cohort.

The Solution: Walk away from the shell game, and spend your 50 on a lovely dinner instead.

These scams may make Paris seem like a scary place, but it really isn’t! Being aware of these unfortunate situations helps you avoid them, making the time you spend in the city so much more pleasant.

La Rentrée: Back to School (and Life!) in Paris

Living in France has some major perks – and it’s not just the exquisite wine and food! France is home to free education for all, inexpensive cultural activities, and a nationwide standard of five weeks of paid vacation per year. This means that, as we’ve previously noted, August in France (and particularly in Paris) is famously empty; it also means that early September is filled with new activity… and not just for students.

While early September certainly means most kids are heading back to school, la rentrée or “the return” isn’t just for young-uns. Here are three ways that Paris is welcoming la rentrée for all Parisians, young and old.

1. Restaurants Are Reopening

Many of our favorite restaurants closed their doors for a much-deserved holiday in August. But now that September has rolled around, they’re reopening – often featuring an updated seasonal menu and tons of new dishes to try. We’re super excited for our favorites like MartinEllsworth, and Racines to be back, among others!

2. New Books are Being Published

La rentrée doesn’t just mean new school notebooks. This is also the season for new novels: hundreds are released in September every year.

In 2018, France is expecting a whopping 567 new books to hit the shelves, so we’ll be hitting up some of our favorite independent bookshops in the Latin Quarter like L’Ecume des Pages (just a step from the historic Café des Deux Magots, where Hemingway used to hang) or Shakespeare and Company to page through all the new releases.

3. Folks are Setting New Resolutions

We’ve always felt that September is a far better time for setting resolutions than January, and the French tend to agree with us. Now that summer has ended, it’s really the prime time for setting goals, be they jogging around the Luxembourg Gardens a few times a week, testing a new restaurant that’s been on your must-try list, or learning a new language.

If you want to get in on the fun of la rentrée at home,why not set a goal yourself? Visiting Paris this year is a great one!

picnic

5 Essentials for the Perfect Parisian Picnic

Summer’s almost over, so with just a few fair-weather days left to enjoy, we’re heading to one of our favorite picnic spots to soak up the last of the sun. As for what we’re packing in  our baskets…  here are the five essentials we always have.

1. Baguette

It’s not a picnic without this most emblematic of French breads. The long, skinny loaf’s name actually means “stick” (and is also used to say “wand,” so Harry Potter had a magic baguette in French!) Not all baguettes are created alike, so seek out only the very best: a former winner of the “Best Baguette in Paris” contest is always a good bet!

2. Wine

While public intoxication is certainly illegal in France, public drinking is not! It’s not uncommon to see folks sitting in a park enjoying a glass of wine or a bottle of beer. Just don’t forget cups and a corkscrew!

3. Rillettes

Rillettes are one of our favorite charcuteries to bring along on a picnic. This spread of shredded meat (often duck) combined with fat is delicious slathered on bread, and it’s sold in most supermarkets in an easy-to-transport tub!

4. Cheese

Is a picnic really Parisian if there’s no cheese? Some easy-to-transport varieties include Camembert and Saint-Marcellin, both of which are sold in a handy container perfect for setting on your picnic blanket (or on the ground).

5. Pastry

Don’t forget about dessert! Most pâtisseries will box up your pastry selection for easy transport, making this the perfect choice for a picnic dessert. Discover some of our favorites with our pastry tour!

Bonus: The Emergency Picnic

Paris sunshine is famously fickle, so when we’re suddenly blessed with a sunny day, speed is occasionally of the essence. That’s when our favorite boulangerie becomes our best friend: local bakeries make fresh sandwiches to offer every single day. The classic Parisien is simple ham-and-butter, and it’s a delicious, truly Parisian treat.

The Real French Kiss: All About ‘La Bise’

We’ve all seen those European air kisses that some people do when they greet each other in the States, but in France, la bise isn’t a rarity: it’s the norm. Generally speaking, any ‘hello’ or ‘goodbye’ involving a woman (and sometimes, greetings between men who are particularly close) involve brushing your cheeks against those of your interlocutor. And to make things even more complicated… it’s not done the same way throughout France.

How to Bise

Giving the bise is generally done by brushing your cheeks against the cheeks of your interlocutor and kissing the air simultaneously. However, the rules change a bit for children: if you’re greeting a child, you’ll let the child actually plant a kiss on your cheek before doing the same!

(Some close friends will also opt for this style of bise, but it’s best to err on the side of air-kissing).

One thing’s for sure: unlike in the States, contact is made with the other person’s cheek.

How Many Kisses?

Depending on the region where you are, the number of kisses involved in the bise will range from two to four:

  • In Paris, as well as in some other major cities like Bordeaux and Toulouse, two kisses are the norm.
  • In the South, particularly near Marseille and Montpellier, as well as in the North, near Lille, people have a preference for three kisses.
  • In western France, meanwhile, near Nantes, four kisses are given (that’s a lot!)

Which Side?

To make things even more complex, not all regions start their kisses on the same side. Not knowing which side to lean to first can certainly lead to some awkward moments!

  • In the north of France (including Paris), turning to the right/droite (so brushing left cheeks first) is the norm.
  • In the south, however, people turn to the left/gauche (and brush right cheeks first).

A Bit of Bise Etiquette

There are a few times where you won’t want to bise:

  • If you’re ill. Because the bise can spread germs, if you’re under the weather, let people know!
  • If you’re meeting someone in a business scenario. Here, a handshake is preferable.

With all of these rules, there are often some faux pas. If you’ve ever had a bise blunder, be sure to share the story with us on Facebook!