Tag: paris

The Real French Kiss: All About ‘La Bise’

We’ve all seen those European air kisses that some people do when they greet each other in the States, but in France, la bise isn’t a rarity: it’s the norm. Generally speaking, any ‘hello’ or ‘goodbye’ involving a woman (and sometimes, greetings between men who are particularly close) involve brushing your cheeks against those of your interlocutor. And to make things even more complicated… it’s not done the same way throughout France.

How to Bise

Giving the bise is generally done by brushing your cheeks against the cheeks of your interlocutor and kissing the air simultaneously. However, the rules change a bit for children: if you’re greeting a child, you’ll let the child actually plant a kiss on your cheek before doing the same!

(Some close friends will also opt for this style of bise, but it’s best to err on the side of air-kissing).

One thing’s for sure: unlike in the States, contact is made with the other person’s cheek.

How Many Kisses?

Depending on the region where you are, the number of kisses involved in the bise will range from two to four:

  • In Paris, as well as in some other major cities like Bordeaux and Toulouse, two kisses are the norm.
  • In the South, particularly near Marseille and Montpellier, as well as in the North, near Lille, people have a preference for three kisses.
  • In western France, meanwhile, near Nantes, four kisses are given (that’s a lot!)

Which Side?

To make things even more complex, not all regions start their kisses on the same side. Not knowing which side to lean to first can certainly lead to some awkward moments!

  • In the north of France (including Paris), turning to the right/droite (so brushing left cheeks first) is the norm.
  • In the south, however, people turn to the left/gauche (and brush right cheeks first).

A Bit of Bise Etiquette

There are a few times where you won’t want to bise:

  • If you’re ill. Because the bise can spread germs, if you’re under the weather, let people know!
  • If you’re meeting someone in a business scenario. Here, a handshake is preferable.

With all of these rules, there are often some faux pas. If you’ve ever had a bise blunder, be sure to share the story with us on Facebook!

Top 5 Spots in Paris for a Picnic

A top Parisian activity in the summertime is picnicking – and we at Paris Uncovered have become picnic experts over the years. Be sure your picnic bag or basket is filled with bread, at least on good knife (for cutting your saucisson, bien sûr), paper plates, napkins, cheese, and fresh, seasonal fruit. Grab a bottle of wine (and don’t forget your corkscrew!) and you’re ready to go!

As for where to go, nearly every park in Paris is prime picnicking ground, but we do have a handful of favorites to suggest.

Champ de Mars (Image care of Flickr/JPC24M)

1. Champ de Mars

Could anything be more classically Paris than a picnic in front of the Eiffel Tower? Choose this picnic ground in the evenings, when you can see the Eiffel Tower shimmer every hour on the hour with a beautiful light show.

 

Sitting along the Seine (Image care of Pixabay)

2. Berges de Seine

All along the riverbanks, people assemble for regular picnicking. Popular spots include the banks near Pont-Neuf and Pont-Marie and those near Notre Dame, although as long as the river is low enough, you can picnic nearly anywhere along the river and watch the Bateaux Mouches float by.

But one of our favorites is definitely the Berges de Seine, running along the Left Bank quai d’Orsay. Here, not only is there seating available for picnicking, but the city has prepared a host of fun activities like hopscotch and even some climbing apparatuses for kids.

 

Canal St Martin (image care of Wikimedia/Geoffrey)

3. Canal Saint-Martin

This trendier neighborhood to the north of Paris welcomes tons of picnickers every evening once the weather turns warmer. The quartier boasts quite a few great food and wine shops to source your picnic from, and many of the bars overlooking the canal even sell beer in to go cups, for something cool to sip on.

 

Basilica Sacre Coeur (Image care of Wikimedia/Sebastian Bergmann)

4. The Steps of Sacré Coeur

If ambiance is what you seek, look no further than the steps leading towards Sacré Coeur basilica, at the top of Montmartre. While space is in low supply here, the views over Paris and frequent musical stylings make this spot worth it.

 

Luxembourg Gardens (Image care of Pixabay/Mariamichelle)

5. Luxembourg Gardens

Daytime picnics can be enjoyed in any one of several parks, from Montsouris and Buttes Chaumont with their grassy knolls to the Tuileries with its lovely views of the Louvre. We especially love the Luxembourg, not only for its gorgeous flower patches, but as the perfect option for folks who aren’t too keen on sitting on the ground, as the city puts two types of chairs – upright and reclining – perfect for an afternoon of munching and enjoying the sunshine.

Main image care of Dirk Haun

easter bells

In France, Easter Brings Bells, Not Bunnies!

The Easter Bunny doesn’t come to France on Easter, but we do have flying bells!

The Tradition of “Les Cloches”

The legend of les cloches (the bells) of Easter stems from the fact that in Catholic tradition, church bells are not rung between Holy Thursday and Easter Sunday, as a sort of mourning for Jesus, whom Catholics believe rises from the dead on Easter. In France, where there is a church in every town, children would often ask why the bells weren’t ringing, and parents would tell their little ones that les cloches had gone to Rome to be blessed by the Pope before coming back in time for Easter Mass.

Every year, the bells are rung for the first time after Saturday’s Easter Vigil Mass; if you ask any French child, on the return trip from Rome, les cloches come filled with candies and other treats that they drop into their gardens – thus the Easter morning surprise of treats and eggs to uncover.

The Easter Bunny

Funnily enough, the Easter bunny tradition does exist in one place in France: in the east. That’s because our Easter bunny actually hails from Germany, which shares a border with eastern France: this more pagan symbol stands for new life and fertility as spring begins.

Even though the Easter bunny isn’t a French tradition, you will find its likeness in one very specific place throughout France: chocolate shops.

Easter Chocolates

Whether it’s the bunny or the bells that bring you treats for Easter, one thing’s for sure: everyone loves chocolate. Most of Paris’ chocolatiers have already started putting out their multicolored eggs, bunnies, bells, and chicks for the occasion. Discover some of our favorites with our Sweet Tooth tour the next time you’re in the city!

mona lisa crowd

3 Insider Tips for Avoiding Crowds in Paris

Paris is one of the top tourist destinations in the world, so it’s no wonder that it can feel as though you’re always surrounded by crowds: in the métro, in the museums, even in shops and restaurants! If you’re looking to avoid crowds, however, we do have a few tips to offer.

1. Avoid the Metro During Peak Hours

Most French people work from 9am to 6pm (and get at least an hour’s break for lunch!) This means that attempting to ride the metro between 8 and 9am and between 5 and 7pm can feel like hell. Instead, try to plan out your days so you’re not underground during those times: you can either get out earlier, sleep a little later, or walk to your first destination and get to know Paris’ neighborhoods on foot.

2. Visit the Louvre at Night

The Louvre is Europe’s largest museum, and it’s at the top of nearly everyone’s list. To keep from attempting to see the Mona Lisa by peering through the light of a thousand selfie sticks, consider taking advantage of the Louvre’s noctournes: the museum usually closes at 6pm, but on Wednesday and Friday evenings, it stays open until 10.

And the Louvre isn’t the only museum to do this! Many museums and exhibits have noctournes – for most museums, including the Musée d’Orsay, this happens on Thursdays, but take a look online to make sure.

Of course, if you really want to say goodbye to the crowds in the Louvre – or any other museum – you can always opt for a guided skip-the-line tour. Not only will you save time waiting in long lines, but you’ll also learn far more about the art than you ever could alone.

3. Eat Where the Parisians Eat

While there are certainly good restaurants near tourist attractions, if you really want to miss the crowds, get out of the 5th and 7th and explore areas that may be new to you. The North Marais and the area around the Canal Saint Martin are super popular with Parisians (and less known among tourists). Here are just a few of our favorite spots:

corot

Top 3 Things to Do in Paris in March

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, delicious food – there are certain Paris must-dos that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about for next month.

1. Discover Corot’s Models

Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot is becoming the star of the Marmottan Museum this month with an exhibit focused on his portraits. More than 60 works of art – many of which are lesser known works of the Impressionist painter, who is more renowned for his landscapes – will be united at the museum through July.

His friend Alexandre Clérambault wrote that Corot was a perfectionist when it came to his portraits. “At the beginning,” he wrote, “It was a bit of a joke to him, but as he worked, he became more animated and put a laughable ardor into them.”

2. Join the Omnivore Ranks

Foodies will fall head over heels for this festival devoted to contemporary cuisine. Omnivore takes place from March 4th through 6th, uniting some of the top chefs in France and in the world for demonstrations, dinners, tastings, and more.

This 15th anniversary event is hosted by Lavazza, so don’t be surprised if there are more than a handful of events and tastings devoted to the intersection of food and coffee. Be sure to book your tickets online before you go!

3. Celebrate the Luck of the Irish

While Paris might not seem like your first thought when planning your Saint Patrick’s Day celebration, the expat population in Paris is always down for a party, and the city is actually home to quite a few places for a Guinness if you happen to be in town on the 17th. Here are some of our favorite Irish pubs for craic and Irish tunes:

  • Corcoran’s Irish Pub – 110, boulevard de Clichy
  • The Green Linnet – 8, avenue de Victoria
  • Le Galway – 13, quai des Grands Augustins
  • The Hideout – 33, rue de Gaité
  • Le Guinness – 31, rue des Lombards
romantic paris

5 Famous French Romances to Inspire You this Valentine’s Day

Paris’ reputation as the City of Love is well-earned – many lovers have called the French capital home. In celebration of Valentine’s Day, here are just a few of our favorite love stories throughout the ages that have left their mark on Paris

1. Héloïse and AbéLard

This Medieval couple is the subject of a beautiful epic poem by Alexander Pope, and though their story is not the happiest, it is certainly filled with love.

Héloïse met Abélard when he was hired by her uncle to be her private tutor, and quickly, the two fell in love. When Héloïse became pregnant, she was forced to leave Paris in shame, and her uncle (for reasons that are still disputed by scholars) had Abélard attacked and castrated. The couple decided to take Holy Orders were thus separated for twenty years – but they kept up a famous correspondence of beautiful love letters that so enchanted Josephine Bonaparte that she had their remains moved to Père Lachaise cemetery, where they are buried as though they had lived as man and wife.

2. Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir

Sartre and de Beauvoir were the intellectual power couple of Paris’ literary scene in the 1950s and 60s. While their love story was far from traditional – they never lived together and famously had an open relationship – De Beauvoir said that her union with Sartre “made a superfluous mockery of any other bond we might have forged for ourselves,” and there’s something rather romantic about that.

3. Frédéric Chopin and George Sand

The romance between Chopin and Sand bucked the gender binary long before it was common: cigar-smoking, pants-wearing, Revolutionary novelist Sand and shy, sickly, discreet Chopin seemed a strange pairing at first, but they spent almost nine years together. When they finally separated, Chopin’s illness (tuberculosis or, some muse, cystic fibrosis) worsened, and while Sand had always promised he would die in her arms, there is no proof that this actually happened. While their love story did not finish happily, it was, many say, the inspiration behind many of Chopin’s most beautiful compositions.

 

4. Henri II and Diane de Poitiers

King Henri II was married to Catherine de Medici, but that didn’t stop him from keeping up a several-decade relationship with Diane de Poitiers, 20 years his senior. Diane was an extremely intelligent noblewoman who was instrumental in many of Henri’s political successes and earned great power in the court. She was immortalized in Henri’s engraved signature: an H and two interlaced Ds (which originally more closely resembled Cs, for Catherine), and when Henri died in a jousting match, he was flying Diane’s favor rather than that of his wife.

Diane’s presence and influence is most evident at the Loire Valley chateau of Chenonceau, where she lived, but you can also see elements of it at the King’s Parisian palace, the Louvre.

5. Quasimodo and Esmeralda

While these lovers are fictional, their presence in Paris cannot be denied. Two of the main characters of Victor Hugo’s opus Notre Dame de Paris are the eponymous (in the English translation, at least) hunchback and the gypsy Esmeralda. While Esmeralda never held Quasimodo in her affections, the ending of the novel (far darker than that of the Disney film) shows just how much Quasimodo loved her.

eiffel tower

3 Romantic Ways to Spend Valentine’s Day in Paris

It’s no secret that Paris is the city of love – which makes it the perfect place to spend Valentine’s Day with that special someone! Here are three of our favorite ways to make the day special.

1. Walk Along the Seine

Walks along the Seine are a bit damper these days, but the river running through Paris is still a lovely spot to wander arm-in-arm. In the past, lovers would go to the Pont des Arts and padlock their love to the city. While this is now frowned upon (lest the bridge sink – not super romantic!) the Pont des Arts, Pont Alexandre III, and Pont Neuf are all beautiful places to soak up the views of central Paris.

2. Stroll Père Lachaise Arm-in-Arm

A cemetery visit might not seem like the most romantic way to spend Valentine’s Day, but Père Lachaise is actually home to a host of famous couples: from Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas to the medieval Héloïse and Abélard (sometimes dubbed the French Romeo and Juliet), you’ll have more than your share of lovers to inspire you.

3. Enjoy a Candlelit Dinner

Paris’ gastronomic prowess is no secret, and what better day than Valentine’s Day to enjoy a delicious, romantic meal with your partner?

Since spots that take reservations tend to fill up pretty quickly on the 14th, here are a handful of our favorite spots that don’t take reservations; show up early (at 7pm) or late (at 9:30pm) to avoid the crowds.

  • Café Constant offers a reasonable, seasonally-inspired prix fixe not far from the Eiffel Tower –  the perfect place to stroll once you’ve finished your meal of heartier fare from the French Southwest.
  • Frenchie bar à vins is the wine bar outpost of Gregory Marchand’s famous Frenchie restaurant; the small plates menu makes for a delicious shared dinner. Just be sure to show up early – folks start to line up at 6:30 to score a seat.
  • Le Relais de l’Entrecôte is a Parisian classic; the family-owned restaurant serves only one dish: steak-frites. When your waitress appears tableside, she’ll just ask you how you like it cooked (and what wine you’d like to enjoy alongside it!)
fireworks

3 Ways to Have a Perfect New Year’s Eve in Paris

Spending New Year’s Eve in Paris? Aside from learning how to count down backwards in French (trois, deux, un…), you’ll want to keep your eye on some of the chicest ways to celebrate in the capital. Here are just three places you might find us on New Year’s Eve!

1. Celebrate New Year’s Eve in Paris on the River Seine

The Seine is the river floating through Paris, separating the city into the Rives Gauche and Droite. This New Year’s Eve, why not let it be your guide?

This New Year’s Eve boat party takes place on a classic Parisian péniche, docked not far from the central Ile Saint Louis, one of the two islands in the center of the city. The boat boasts not only a dance floor but a huge covered terrace from which you’ll get one of the most beautiful panoramic views of the city. Just be sure to book in advance: this party is sure to fill up.

2. A Spectacular Fireworks Show

If fireworks are more your style, the place to be at midnight is the Champs-Elysées. The city of Paris projects a light show on the imposing Arc de Triomphe before unleashing a spectacular fireworks show at midnight.

Of course, if standing out in the cold on the Champs-Elysées doesn’t sound like your idea of fun, you can easily pop a bottle of bubbly and enjoy the spectacle from your hotel room: BFMTV (channel 30) broadcasts the show live.

3. The Early Bird Special

If you want to take advantage of the spectacle of New Year’s Eve in Paris without having to stay up super late, a tour bus of Paris’ various illuminations may be more your style. This Paris by Night tour departs at 5, 6, and 7pm, and for an hour and a half, it will guide you through some of Paris’ most beautiful monuments, all lit up for the end-of-year festivities.

This tour is the perfect way to add a special-occasion flair to your New Year’s Even in Paris while also making sure you get home in time to get a good night’s rest – so you’re ready to explore the city on the first day of 2018!

arc de triomphe

Top 5 Delicious Treats for Warming up in Paris

vin chaud - mulled wine

Image care of Jameson Fink

Winter has arrived in Paris, and that means lots of twinkle lights, Christmas markets, and, yes, rapidly falling temperatures. Luckily, Paris has just the thing to take the chill off.

1. Vin Chaud

Vin chaud is called mulled wine in English (a better term, in our humble opinion, than the direct translation of “hot wine”). A combination of red wine, fruit, and warm spices, vin chaud can be found at nearly every outdoor Christmas market in Paris. But if you want to try a truly exquisite version of this wintertime classic, head over to Chez Georges, a bistro and wine bar that cooks up our fave vin chaud in the capital.

Chez Georges – 11, rue des Canettes, 6th arrondissement

angelina hot chocolate

Image care of Angelina

2. Hot Chocolate

If you’d like a warm beverage with a bit less of a kick than vin chaud, you’re in luck: Paris, as home to some of the best pastries in the world, is also home to some of the best hot chocolate. There’s no contest for our favorite: the exquisite African hot chocolate at Angelina. The legendary cocoa here is served with a side dish of unsweetened whipped cream – ostensibly to temper the nearly impossible richness of the brew. If you’re traveling with friends, consider ordering one African and one white hot chocolate – the latter is served with a chocolate whipped cream instead.

Angelina – 226, rue de Rivoli, 1st arrondissement

fondue savoyarde

Image care of Varaine

3. Fondue and Raclette

These two Alpine specialties are classics of après-ski or after-ski dining: the former is a bubbling cauldron of melted cheese and a touch of white wine into which you dip croutons of crusty, day-old baguette. When you order the latter, meanwhile, you’ll be brought an apparatus featuring a half-wheel of melty raclette cheese which you heat and scrape (racler, in French) over a plate of potatoes, cured meat, and pickles. To satisfy all of your cheesiest dreams, Le Brasier is the place to go.

Le Brasier – 58, Avenue des Ternes, 17th arrondissement

french onion soup

4. French Onion Soup

French onion soup was originally invented in the Paris Les Halles market: market vendors would throw a hodgepodge of leftover veg into a pot and cook it up for a nighttime snack. While Les Halles has since shuttered (and Parisian markets these days take place during the daylight hours), you can still find excellent soupe à l’oignon in Paris.

A perfect French onion soup is a labor of love, with deeply caramelized onions and a rich beef broth topped with a generous handful of gruyère cheese before being gratinéed under the broiler. While some still seek it out at holdover restaurant Au Pied de Cochon, located a stone’s throw from where Les Halles once stood, we prefer the slightly less touristy dining room (and even better soup) at Bistrot des Vosges.

Bistrot des Vosges – 31 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 4th arrondissement

roasted chestnuts

5. Roasted Chestnuts

If you want to warm up but you don’t want to slow down, Paris has a solution! For just a few euros, nearly every street corner affords the opportunity to get your hands on a paper cone of freshly roasted chestnuts, which you can snack on as you walk to your next adventure. Bon appétit!

paris

Meet Your Paris Uncovered Guides

2 Comments

The brains (and the brawn) behind Paris Uncovered are Randa and Emily: two American expats who fell head-over-heels in love with the city and decided to make it their permanent home.

We’ve made a career out of showing visitors to Paris the ins and outs of our adopted home via walking tours, but we have a few little tips and tricks to share with you via this blog, too! So without further ado, it’s time to meet your guides.

RandA

When and why did you first move to Paris?

Having had short stints living abroad in Lyon and London, I fell in love with the experience of discovering a new city and culture. While I loved my years discovering Chicago, I was ready to explore another city and tackle a new challenge. In January 2011, I dove head first into my next chapter: studying at the Sorbonne, making new friends from around the world and attempting to master the French language!

What’s your favorite Paris neighborhood?

The Marais (both north and south) has always been a favorite and continues to be thanks to its blend of old and new Paris. You have it all: gorgeous views of gardens, medieval-to-renaissance-to-haussmannien architecture, cozy cafes and innovative restaurants. Whether you want to wander, shop or sit and people-watch: it’s perfect for any mood! A close runner-up would be the canal district -excellent for a long meandering walk.

What’s your favorite period of French history to discover?

I’ve always been intrigued by the French Revolution and it’s many cultural implications. When you dig beyond the famous “let them eat cake!” and “off with your head!” phrases, you find a story about human rights and the human spirit that has impacted France (and maybe, the world) in many ways beyond the guillotine. Although, the guillotine certainly makes for a dramatic element to that part of history!

What’s your favorite thing to eat in Paris?

It’s so hard to choose! The first to pop into my head: either a croissant aux amandes or jambon-beurre. A croissant aux amandes is a croissant that’s filled with almond paste, covered in almonds, then baked and covered in powdered sugar (its honesty more dessert than breakfast!) A jambon-beurre sandwich is the edible form of “less is more”: a slice of ham and smear of butter on a crunchy baguette. Both can be found at nearly any boulangerie, but they are not all created equal, so be careful!

What’s one thing you wish visitors to Paris knew about Parisians?

Pride in our city and culture is a universal trait around the world – and Parisians are no different. Showing your appreciation for their city, culture and language can help you make friends fast. A simple “bonjour” when greeting someone, and a “merci” to thank them can go a long way!

Emily

When and why did you first move to Paris?

I first moved here in 2007, and it was a total accident. I had been studying abroad in Cannes, and when push came to shove, I wanted to stay. There was no way for me to transfer my university credits to the French system, so I moved to Paris to attend the American University here, thinking I’d stay 18 months to finish my degree. That was eleven years ago.

What’s your favorite Paris neighborhood?

There are so many that are close to my heart: in fact, wandering Paris’ neighborhoods was one of the things that convinced me that I wanted to make the city my permanent home. I spend a lot of time in the 5th and 6th, where my favorite bookstores are located, but I have a lofty dream of someday living in Montmartre. When I’m not giving tours with Paris Uncovered, I’m also a food journalist, which means that these days, I spend a lot of time in the 10th and 11th, around République, where many of the innovative restaurants are.

What’s your favorite period of French history to discover?

I kind of feel obliged to say the 19th century, because that’s the period I specialized in when I was getting my Master’s degree at the Sorbonne. I love the post-revolutionary period and the way in which the French tried, failed, and tried again to create a sustainable republic. I think this period, wrought with difficulty, shows us a lot about what defines the French as a people.

That said, I’m also very interested in Les Années Folles (the “crazy” years, also known as the Roaring Twenties) and the Occupation of Paris and the French Resistance during World War II. I think what I love so much about French history (or history in general!) is that it’s just a chain of cause and effect, so if you delve deep enough, all periods of history are linked in one way or another (and there’s no better place to see how and why than Paris).

What’s your favorite thing to eat in Paris?

I’m a huge cheese lover – give me your smelliest piece, and I’m sold! But I’m also loving the return to truly artisanal bread these days. I have a few favorite addresses in the city for hand-made, slow-fermented bread (which goes very well with cheese, I must say!)

Other than that, I’m really digging the small plates revolution that has (finally) come to Paris. Market-driven menus are my jam, and there are a lot of them popping up in the capital.

What’s one thing you wish visitors to Paris knew about Parisians?

That the “rude” stereotype is a total misunderstanding! I come from New York, and I know that we’re painted as brusque and kind of mean, but both New Yorkers and Parisians love their city and want to help you out – we just want to be asked politely and appropriately. In the case of Parisians, that means starting every interaction with “Bonjour ! Parlez-vous anglais ?” (Hello! Do you speak English?) Most Parisians do, and when they hear that you’re trying (and that you’ve started your sentence with bonjour), they’ll be more than happy to point you in the right direction.