parisian café

Café Culture in Paris: Our Guide to Good Coffee and Great Ambiance

Paris is famous for its sidewalk cafés (dubbed terrasses by the locals), locations inextricably linked with its history.

From Procope, Paris’ first café, which hosted the founding fathers of both the French and the American Revolutions, to Flore, which Existentialist writer Jean-Paul Sartre considered a second home, to Brasserie Lipp, where Hemingway used to sit and scribble (and yes, sip a beer or two), it’s no wonder that sitting in a true Parisian café is on the minds of many visitors to the city.

For these writers and revolutionaries, Paris’ cafés became a sort of outdoor living room: a place they could meet to discuss writing, politics, and more. (Find out even more about this on our Left Bank tour!)

You may have noticed the repercussions of this tradition on the modern Parisian café. Here are just three ways Paris’ cafés retain this Old World culture.

1. You don’t need to pay rent.

Cafés have long been considered meeting places, in large part due to the fact that young thinkers and writers didn’t have the space to welcome their cohorts into their homes. They would linger over one drink for hours, and the same is still accepted – and even expected – in Paris today.

When you visit a Parisian café, you’re free to order just one drink and sit and talk, read, or – in some cases – even work on your computer, for as long as you like.

That said, don’t push this cultural norm too far! If you notice that the café is filling up (or that waiters are setting up for lunch!) either buy something new or move on.

2. Your waiter isn’t rude – despite what it may seem!

Waiters are far from attentive in Paris, but don’t misconstrue their intentions! Parisian waiters are purposefully aloof to keep you from feeling like you’re being chased away. Once you’ve ordered, they won’t bother you – which means you might have to work to hail them and pay your check!

Sometimes, if your waiter is going off shift, he may ask you to settle your bill, but you can still linger without a problem.

3. People-watching is a sport.

You may notice that if you grab a table outdoors, you won’t be facing your dining companion. Most café tables in Paris are set with both chairs facing the street, both freeing up sidewalk space for those who need to walk past and providing café-goers ample opportunity to watch the passers-by! So sit back, relax, and soak up this all-too-Parisian past time.

Top 3 Things to Do in February in Paris

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about this month.

1. Trying a New Michelin-Starred Restaurant

The new Michelin guide was published in January, and with 18 new one-star and two new two-star restaurants in the capital, there are more than a handful of places we’d love to try (and a few, like Frenchie and Racines, that we’d love to go back to!) While dining at a Michelin-starred establishment can certainly be an investment, it’s also an experience that’s well worth the heftier bill. A bit of local advice? Try going at lunch, when the check won’t be quite as pricey but the food will be just as delicious.

2. Seeing a Street Art Train

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bsms9EWBX0U/

On February 2nd, an art installation that has already seen success in Poland, Austria, and Germany will be coming to Paris – to Gare de l’Est, to be precise. The graffitied train is the longest mobile street art piece ever created and will be hanging out on Parisian tracks all day on Saturday. With two new cars tagged by local street artists, this installation is intended to draw attention to transportation’s effect on the climate.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtOW-EXAajH/

3. Immersing Yourself in Van Gogh

Following the enormous success of the Atelier des Lumières’ Klimt exhibit, the immersive space is inviting France’s favorite Dutchman, Vincent Van Gogh, to be its next star. Beginning on February 22, Van Gogh’s most famous paintings will be accompanied by sound and light installations for a 35-minute immersive experience that promises to be something very special.

Gain skip-the-line access to this and other exhibits as part of our no-stress turn-key trips!

picnic

5 Essentials for the Perfect Parisian Picnic

Summer’s almost over, so with just a few fair-weather days left to enjoy, we’re heading to one of our favorite picnic spots to soak up the last of the sun. As for what we’re packing in  our baskets…  here are the five essentials we always have.

1. Baguette

It’s not a picnic without this most emblematic of French breads. The long, skinny loaf’s name actually means “stick” (and is also used to say “wand,” so Harry Potter had a magic baguette in French!) Not all baguettes are created alike, so seek out only the very best: a former winner of the “Best Baguette in Paris” contest is always a good bet!

2. Wine

While public intoxication is certainly illegal in France, public drinking is not! It’s not uncommon to see folks sitting in a park enjoying a glass of wine or a bottle of beer. Just don’t forget cups and a corkscrew!

3. Rillettes

Rillettes are one of our favorite charcuteries to bring along on a picnic. This spread of shredded meat (often duck) combined with fat is delicious slathered on bread, and it’s sold in most supermarkets in an easy-to-transport tub!

4. Cheese

Is a picnic really Parisian if there’s no cheese? Some easy-to-transport varieties include Camembert and Saint-Marcellin, both of which are sold in a handy container perfect for setting on your picnic blanket (or on the ground).

5. Pastry

Don’t forget about dessert! Most pâtisseries will box up your pastry selection for easy transport, making this the perfect choice for a picnic dessert. Discover some of our favorites with our pastry tour!

Bonus: The Emergency Picnic

Paris sunshine is famously fickle, so when we’re suddenly blessed with a sunny day, speed is occasionally of the essence. That’s when our favorite boulangerie becomes our best friend: local bakeries make fresh sandwiches to offer every single day. The classic Parisien is simple ham-and-butter, and it’s a delicious, truly Parisian treat.

Paris Plages: A Summertime Must-See!

Braving the heat during a Parisian summer can be tough, but there is one place you can cool down: the Parisian beach!

I know what you’re thinking: Paris is landlocked. And while the city hasn’t undergone any topographical magic, since the creation of Paris Plages in 2002, you can indeed go to the beach, even in the city.

What’s Paris Plages?

Paris Plages is a series of beach-like installations along the Seine River and the Bassin de la Villette. These free installations feature chaise lounges, misters, sun umbrellas, and sports activities. (There used to even be sand!)

Paris Plages 2018 is open until September 2, and it’s totally free for anyone to access.

Where’s Paris Plages?

There are two different Paris Plages areas: one in central Paris along the Seine, and the other in the 19th, at la Villette.

Image care of Praia

Quais de Seine

The first extends from the Pont de Solferino to the Pont Alexandre III on the Left Bank and from the Pont de Sully to Pont Neuf on the Right Bank. Pulling up a chaise lounge on this portion of Paris Plages allows you to take in historic monuments like the Louvre and Notre Dame, not to mention the River Seine flowing at your feet.

While there’s no swimming here, there are activities like foosball, mini-golf, and even ballroom dancing – and there are misters all around in case you need to cool down.

Image care of Lionel Allorge

Bassin de la Villette

If you can’t imagine the beach without swimming, however, the Bassin de la Villette is the place to be. Here, swimming pools have been installed in the Canal de l’Ourcq, providing the perfect spot to take a dip and cool down.

Chaise lounges, lockers, and changing rooms are at your disposal, and lifeguards watch over the different swimming areas during opening hours.

Once you’ve had a dip, take advantage of the board games, paddle boats, and even a zip line with exquisite views over the Canal itself!

Top image Ken Eckert

canal saint martin

It’s August in Paris – Where Are All the Parisians?

If you’re visiting Paris this month, you may be surprised to see that there are very few locals lolling about. Cafés, shops, and restaurants have shuttered, with possibly a sign in the window indicating that their staff will be back come September.

This isn’t a Purge situation, but rather a regular Parisian tradition of les grandes vacances, or “the big holiday.” Since most French people get a full five weeks of paid vacation, a large portion of Parisians flee the capital for the entire month of August, and that includes some of our favorite fromagers, restaurateurs, and barmen.

That said, don’t believe for just one minute that you’ll be encountering a total wasteland when you arrive in Paris in août. Here are some of our favorite things to do in a Paris sans Parisians.

1. Visit Paris’ Museums

The Parisians may be gone, but Paris’ museums won’t be shutting their doors. Enjoy a wander through the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, or Catacombs and take in Paris’ past.

2. Eat AT Some Great Restaurants

Many Parisian restaurants will close their doors in August, but that isn’t the case for all of them! Here are a few of our favorite restaurants that will be remaining open this summer:

If you need help finding a restaurant (or planning the rest of your trip!) consider letting Paris Uncovered help you plan your trip!

3. Take Advantage of Paris’ Summer ACtivities

Paris in summertime is filled with fun things to see and do. Not only will many of the parks be empty enough for you to take advantage of the free seating at the Tuileries or the centuries-old pushboats at the Luxembourg gardens, but you can also:

Share your favorite summer activities with Paris Uncovered via Facebook and Instagram!

eiffel tower fireworks

Bastille Day Isn’t Called Bastille Day in Paris (But It Is a Party!)

The 4th of July has come and gone with little fanfare in Paris, but France is building up to its own national holiday: the 14th of July, dubbed “Bastille Day” in most of the Anglophone world, is France’s national holiday, but if you ask any French person, it’s not the celebration of the day the Bastille prison fell.

A Bit of History

In 1789, the political and social upheaval that had been brewing in France finally came to a head: beginning in May when the commoners of France (those who were neither part of the clergy nor members of the aristocracy) formed a National Assembly, against the wishes of the King, and invited both clergymen and nobility to join. In late June, the newly formed National Assembly took the “Tennis Court Oath,” vowing to establish a constitution – and not to separate until it had been done. They locked themselves into the Jeu de Paume building – now a museum – to do so.

While these events are certainly the ones that led up to the Revolution, the event that many remember was the July 14th Storming of the Bastille, when a group of Revolutionaries released the prisoners held inside – all seven of them. This largely symbolic action was seen by the Revolutionaries as a direct affront of the monarchy’s abuses of power.

But while the 14th is a public holiday in France, it actually celebrates, not July 14, 1789, but July 14, 1790. In the year that ensued, the privileges and feudal rights of the aristocracy and clergy were abolished, and the Declaration of the rights of man and the citizen was adopted and signed. On July 14, 1790, the Revolutionaries believed that they were well on their way to adopting a constitutional, parliamentary monarchy (like the one currently in place in England), and the very first Federation Day celebrated, ostensibly, the new unity among people, aristocracy, clergy, and King.

Yes, the French King was still alive on the first July 14 holiday; Louis the 16th and Marie Antoinette wouldn’t try to flee France until the following year, resulting in their eventual demise by guillotine.

Celebrations in Paris

Today, Federation Day occurs on July 14 throughout France. It is France’s national holiday, a celebration of the rights of men and of the French values of liberty, equality, and fraternity.

But like the 4th of July in the United States, it’s also an excuse for a party.

One major event folks in Paris look forward to every year is the Fireman’s Ball. These free balls are held at 40 different firehouses throughout Paris on both the 13th and the 14th of July, allowing folks to dance, drink, and celebrate with the (very handsome) firefighters of Paris. For a full list of participating firehouses this year, click here.

There are, of course, also gorgeous fireworks in Paris for the 14th, with the Eiffel Tower as a backdrop. Many people will congregate on the Champ de Mars to enjoy them, along with the musical accompaniment! This year, the theme of the display and music is “love;” to see how this is interpreted, be on the Champ de Mars before 9pm, when the concert begins. The fireworks will be launched at 11pm and are sure to be a gorgeous site!

Bonne fête de la Fédération à tous !

Image: Yann Caradec

paris by night

Top 3 Things to Do in Paris in July

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about for this month.

1. Watching Le Foot

Even if you’re not a soccer fan, it’s hard to ignore the World Cup! This year, the Cup is being held in Russia, but you’ll still be able to catch it pretty much anywhere in Paris. Choose from among some of our favorite sports bars (or literally any bar in Paris, at least when France is playing!)

2. Outdoor CinEma at La Villette

Paris doesn’t boast tons of air conditioned spaces, which means often in summertime, the best place to spend the evening is outdoors. That’s why you’ll find us at nearly every outdoor screening at the La Villette park.

The schedule for this summer boasts both French and American films, from La La Land to Les Chansons d’Amour. Pack your favorite bottle of rosé to sip while you watch!

3. Have a Dip at La Villette

While Paris is far from the beach, Paris Plage, the artificial beach that appears on the Seine every summer, is back with a vengeance.

But aside from tanning on the quais de Seine, you can also swim in the city center: for the second year in a row, the Bassin de la Villette is open to the public from 11am to 9pm. Access to the bassin is free to all – just don’t forget your swim cap!

sidewalk café

How to Find the Best Sidewalk Cafés in Paris (Plus 3 of Our Faves)

The second the sun comes out in Paris, you can bet that the locals will be heading for a sidewalk café, better known as a terrasse in Paris. But how can you find the best ones? We spill our secrets below.

The 3-Step Sidewalk Café Method

Step 1: Check Out the Sunshine

Sidewalk café sitting is a marathon, not a sprint. Seeing as in Paris, you don’t have to “pay rent” on your spot in a café or restaurant (and can stay there, undisturbed, for hours on end), you don’t necessarily want to find a spot in the sun right now, but a spot that will stay in the sun for as long as possible. You don’t need a compass to figure this out (just trust the Google Maps indications for where east and west are).

Step 2: Consider Your Drink (and Food!) Options

Some sidewalk cafés will have a selection of drinks but slim pickings on food – and that might be fine if you’re not planning on sticking around that long. But if you think you might get peckish later on, take a look at what’s on offer for lunch or dinner.

Step 3: Check Out Your Neighbors

Cigarette smoking is alive and well in Paris, so if you think you’ll be annoyed by this, make sure the people sitting near you don’t have their packs out. Alternatively, you could choose a seat on the edge of the terrace, thus ensuring that you won’t be engulfed in clouds of smoke should some well-meaning smokers appear.

Our 3 Fave Sidewalk Cafés in Paris

While pretty much any terrasse will do on a particularly nice day, we do have a few favorites:

1. Martin

Martin, shall we count the ways in which we love thee? Martin is a wine bar serving up natural wines and market-driven small plates, and nearly the entirety of this diminutive dining room is at least partially outside.

Martin – 24 Boulevard du Temple, 75011

2. Le Comptoir du Relais

Le Comptoir du Relais is the brainchild of culinary mastermind Yves Camdeborde, touted by some as the founder of the neo-bistro movement. His Comptoir is nearly impossible to get into at dinnertime, but at lunch, snag one of the coveted café tables for a drink, a delicious meal, and  prime 6th arrondissement people-watching.

Le Comptoir du Relais – 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006

3. La Mascotte

Perfectly positioned on the rue des Abbesses in picturesque Montmartre sit the two restaurants of La Mascotte: the brasserie and the écaille or seafood restaurant. Two restaurants means two terrasses, thus giving you twice the chance of finding a spot to people-watch in one of our all-time favorite neighborhoods.

La Mascotte – 52 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 

Image care of Moyann Brenn

Top 5 Spots in Paris for a Picnic

A top Parisian activity in the summertime is picnicking – and we at Paris Uncovered have become picnic experts over the years. Be sure your picnic bag or basket is filled with bread, at least on good knife (for cutting your saucisson, bien sûr), paper plates, napkins, cheese, and fresh, seasonal fruit. Grab a bottle of wine (and don’t forget your corkscrew!) and you’re ready to go!

As for where to go, nearly every park in Paris is prime picnicking ground, but we do have a handful of favorites to suggest.

Champ de Mars (Image care of Flickr/JPC24M)

1. Champ de Mars

Could anything be more classically Paris than a picnic in front of the Eiffel Tower? Choose this picnic ground in the evenings, when you can see the Eiffel Tower shimmer every hour on the hour with a beautiful light show.

 

Sitting along the Seine (Image care of Pixabay)

2. Berges de Seine

All along the riverbanks, people assemble for regular picnicking. Popular spots include the banks near Pont-Neuf and Pont-Marie and those near Notre Dame, although as long as the river is low enough, you can picnic nearly anywhere along the river and watch the Bateaux Mouches float by.

But one of our favorites is definitely the Berges de Seine, running along the Left Bank quai d’Orsay. Here, not only is there seating available for picnicking, but the city has prepared a host of fun activities like hopscotch and even some climbing apparatuses for kids.

 

Canal St Martin (image care of Wikimedia/Geoffrey)

3. Canal Saint-Martin

This trendier neighborhood to the north of Paris welcomes tons of picnickers every evening once the weather turns warmer. The quartier boasts quite a few great food and wine shops to source your picnic from, and many of the bars overlooking the canal even sell beer in to go cups, for something cool to sip on.

 

Basilica Sacre Coeur (Image care of Wikimedia/Sebastian Bergmann)

4. The Steps of Sacré Coeur

If ambiance is what you seek, look no further than the steps leading towards Sacré Coeur basilica, at the top of Montmartre. While space is in low supply here, the views over Paris and frequent musical stylings make this spot worth it.

 

Luxembourg Gardens (Image care of Pixabay/Mariamichelle)

5. Luxembourg Gardens

Daytime picnics can be enjoyed in any one of several parks, from Montsouris and Buttes Chaumont with their grassy knolls to the Tuileries with its lovely views of the Louvre. We especially love the Luxembourg, not only for its gorgeous flower patches, but as the perfect option for folks who aren’t too keen on sitting on the ground, as the city puts two types of chairs – upright and reclining – perfect for an afternoon of munching and enjoying the sunshine.

Main image care of Dirk Haun

claude monet

Top 3 Things to Do in Paris in June

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about for this month.

1. See the Last Monet

The Orangerie museum has long played host to eight large-format water lily paintings created by Impressionist master Claude Monet. But for a limited time, the museum has welcomed a temporary exhibit of American abstract expressionists like Jackson Pollock, Helen Frankenthaler, and Ellsworth Kelly. Alongside these works are displayed a handful of rarely seen Monet works that will captivate lovers of the Impressionists.

2. Enjoy the New Jardin d’Acclimatation

As of the 1st of June, the Jardin d’acclimatation has reopened its doors, with 17 new attractions joining the original 23. The theme? Steampunk Paris. Go back in time and enjoy rides, animals, and a wander through nature on the outskirts of the city center.

3. Climb the Saint-Jacques Tower

The time has once again come for the Gothic Saint-Jacques Tower to open to the public. In the last few years, after extensive renovations, visitors have been welcomed to climb to the very top of this imposing structure in the Marais. Its central location is the ideal place to enjoy birds’-eye views of the entire city. Be sure to reserve your ticket in advance – this popular Paris attraction sells out!