Category: Blog

Paris Plages: A Summertime Must-See!

Braving the heat during a Parisian summer can be tough, but there is one place you can cool down: the Parisian beach!

I know what you’re thinking: Paris is landlocked. And while the city hasn’t undergone any topographical magic, since the creation of Paris Plages in 2002, you can indeed go to the beach, even in the city.

What’s Paris Plages?

Paris Plages is a series of beach-like installations along the Seine River and the Bassin de la Villette. These free installations feature chaise lounges, misters, sun umbrellas, and sports activities. (There used to even be sand!)

Paris Plages 2018 is open until September 2, and it’s totally free for anyone to access.

Where’s Paris Plages?

There are two different Paris Plages areas: one in central Paris along the Seine, and the other in the 19th, at la Villette.

Image care of Praia

Quais de Seine

The first extends from the Pont de Solferino to the Pont Alexandre III on the Left Bank and from the Pont de Sully to Pont Neuf on the Right Bank. Pulling up a chaise lounge on this portion of Paris Plages allows you to take in historic monuments like the Louvre and Notre Dame, not to mention the River Seine flowing at your feet.

While there’s no swimming here, there are activities like foosball, mini-golf, and even ballroom dancing – and there are misters all around in case you need to cool down.

Image care of Lionel Allorge

Bassin de la Villette

If you can’t imagine the beach without swimming, however, the Bassin de la Villette is the place to be. Here, swimming pools have been installed in the Canal de l’Ourcq, providing the perfect spot to take a dip and cool down.

Chaise lounges, lockers, and changing rooms are at your disposal, and lifeguards watch over the different swimming areas during opening hours.

Once you’ve had a dip, take advantage of the board games, paddle boats, and even a zip line with exquisite views over the Canal itself!

Top image Ken Eckert

ice cream

Best 5 Spots to Enjoy Ice Cream in Paris

It’s hot in Paris, and when you’re in a city that eschews air conditioning, it’s important to find other ways to cool down. Luckily, Paris is also home to more than a handful of great glaciers or ice cream shops.

But before we delve into our faves, here are some important words to know when you place your order:

Une glace – an ice cream
Un sorbet – a sorbet

Une boule – one scoop
Deux boules – two scoops
Trois boules – three scoops

Un cornet – a cone
Une coupe – a cup

Merci ! – Thank you!

Now, on to more important things!

1. The Oldest: Berthillon

It’s hard to talk ice cream in Paris without mentioning Berthillon, the French glacier that has been churning out luxury ice creams on the Ile Saint-Louis since the 50s. While you’ll find several shops selling the famous ice cream, there’s only one original shop, on the rue Saint-Louis-en-Ile. Here, you can sample all sorts of flavors, from classic vanilla or dark chocolate to more innovative whiskey-coffee, lavender, or lemon and cilantro praline. (Sample it with us on our tour of Paris’ islands and Notre Dame.)

Berthillon – 29-31 rue Saint-Louis en l’île, 75004 Paris

2. The Most Ubiquitous: Amorino

Nearly everywhere you go in Paris, you’ll find an outpost of this gelateria, an Italian-style gelato shop that is famous for scooping its ice cream into beautiful flowers. While it might not offer the artisanal charm of some other shops on this list, Amorino’s gelato is delicious (and is available in flavors like dulce de leche, blueberry cheesecake, or cream.

Amorino (find all addresses in Paris here)

3. The Most Creative: Une Glace à Paris

The co-owner of Une Glace à Paris, Emmanuel Ryon, received a Meilleur Ouvrier de France recognition for his work in ice cream and pastry, and it’s not hard to see why: these homemade ice creams are made with some of the best ingredients and boast flavors like beech-smoked vanilla or buckwheat nougat. (Test some more MOF-made creations on our Best Bites of Paris tour!)

Une Glace à Paris – 5 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004 OR 44 rue des Abbesses, 75018

4. The Most Exotic: Bachir

Bachir brings cool, creamy flavors from Lebanon to Paris. Made entirely with organic ingredients, these ice creams feature flavors like rose, lemon, or pistachio that can be mixed and matched to suit your tastes. The Achta ice cream is one of the stars of the menu – a combination of cream ice cream and pistachio that has stolen the heart of many a Parisian.

Bachir – 58 Rue Rambuteau, 75004

5. The Chicest: La Glacerie

Paris is one of the world capitals of fashion, so it’s perhaps no surprise that this chic vibe has even made it to the city’s ice cream. At La Glacerie, ice creams are sold, not in a cone, but in a tube, like a lipstick! With a huge variety of flavors made from only the best ingredients, ice cream never looked so cool.

La Glacerie – 13 rue du Temple, 75004

eiffel tower fireworks

Bastille Day Isn’t Called Bastille Day in Paris (But It Is a Party!)

The 4th of July has come and gone with little fanfare in Paris, but France is building up to its own national holiday: the 14th of July, dubbed “Bastille Day” in most of the Anglophone world, is France’s national holiday, but if you ask any French person, it’s not the celebration of the day the Bastille prison fell.

A Bit of History

In 1789, the political and social upheaval that had been brewing in France finally came to a head: beginning in May when the commoners of France (those who were neither part of the clergy nor members of the aristocracy) formed a National Assembly, against the wishes of the King, and invited both clergymen and nobility to join. In late June, the newly formed National Assembly took the “Tennis Court Oath,” vowing to establish a constitution – and not to separate until it had been done. They locked themselves into the Jeu de Paume building – now a museum – to do so.

While these events are certainly the ones that led up to the Revolution, the event that many remember was the July 14th Storming of the Bastille, when a group of Revolutionaries released the prisoners held inside – all seven of them. This largely symbolic action was seen by the Revolutionaries as a direct affront of the monarchy’s abuses of power.

But while the 14th is a public holiday in France, it actually celebrates, not July 14, 1789, but July 14, 1790. In the year that ensued, the privileges and feudal rights of the aristocracy and clergy were abolished, and the Declaration of the rights of man and the citizen was adopted and signed. On July 14, 1790, the Revolutionaries believed that they were well on their way to adopting a constitutional, parliamentary monarchy (like the one currently in place in England), and the very first Federation Day celebrated, ostensibly, the new unity among people, aristocracy, clergy, and King.

Yes, the French King was still alive on the first July 14 holiday; Louis the 16th and Marie Antoinette wouldn’t try to flee France until the following year, resulting in their eventual demise by guillotine.

Celebrations in Paris

Today, Federation Day occurs on July 14 throughout France. It is France’s national holiday, a celebration of the rights of men and of the French values of liberty, equality, and fraternity.

But like the 4th of July in the United States, it’s also an excuse for a party.

One major event folks in Paris look forward to every year is the Fireman’s Ball. These free balls are held at 40 different firehouses throughout Paris on both the 13th and the 14th of July, allowing folks to dance, drink, and celebrate with the (very handsome) firefighters of Paris. For a full list of participating firehouses this year, click here.

There are, of course, also gorgeous fireworks in Paris for the 14th, with the Eiffel Tower as a backdrop. Many people will congregate on the Champ de Mars to enjoy them, along with the musical accompaniment! This year, the theme of the display and music is “love;” to see how this is interpreted, be on the Champ de Mars before 9pm, when the concert begins. The fireworks will be launched at 11pm and are sure to be a gorgeous site!

Bonne fête de la Fédération à tous !

Image: Yann Caradec

paris by night

Top 3 Things to Do in Paris in July

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about for this month.

1. Watching Le Foot

Even if you’re not a soccer fan, it’s hard to ignore the World Cup! This year, the Cup is being held in Russia, but you’ll still be able to catch it pretty much anywhere in Paris. Choose from among some of our favorite sports bars (or literally any bar in Paris, at least when France is playing!)

2. Outdoor CinEma at La Villette

Paris doesn’t boast tons of air conditioned spaces, which means often in summertime, the best place to spend the evening is outdoors. That’s why you’ll find us at nearly every outdoor screening at the La Villette park.

The schedule for this summer boasts both French and American films, from La La Land to Les Chansons d’Amour. Pack your favorite bottle of rosé to sip while you watch!

3. Have a Dip at La Villette

While Paris is far from the beach, Paris Plage, the artificial beach that appears on the Seine every summer, is back with a vengeance.

But aside from tanning on the quais de Seine, you can also swim in the city center: for the second year in a row, the Bassin de la Villette is open to the public from 11am to 9pm. Access to the bassin is free to all – just don’t forget your swim cap!

sidewalk café

How to Find the Best Sidewalk Cafés in Paris (Plus 3 of Our Faves)

The second the sun comes out in Paris, you can bet that the locals will be heading for a sidewalk café, better known as a terrasse in Paris. But how can you find the best ones? We spill our secrets below.

The 3-Step Sidewalk Café Method

Step 1: Check Out the Sunshine

Sidewalk café sitting is a marathon, not a sprint. Seeing as in Paris, you don’t have to “pay rent” on your spot in a café or restaurant (and can stay there, undisturbed, for hours on end), you don’t necessarily want to find a spot in the sun right now, but a spot that will stay in the sun for as long as possible. You don’t need a compass to figure this out (just trust the Google Maps indications for where east and west are).

Step 2: Consider Your Drink (and Food!) Options

Some sidewalk cafés will have a selection of drinks but slim pickings on food – and that might be fine if you’re not planning on sticking around that long. But if you think you might get peckish later on, take a look at what’s on offer for lunch or dinner.

Step 3: Check Out Your Neighbors

Cigarette smoking is alive and well in Paris, so if you think you’ll be annoyed by this, make sure the people sitting near you don’t have their packs out. Alternatively, you could choose a seat on the edge of the terrace, thus ensuring that you won’t be engulfed in clouds of smoke should some well-meaning smokers appear.

Our 3 Fave Sidewalk Cafés in Paris

While pretty much any terrasse will do on a particularly nice day, we do have a few favorites:

1. Martin

Martin, shall we count the ways in which we love thee? Martin is a wine bar serving up natural wines and market-driven small plates, and nearly the entirety of this diminutive dining room is at least partially outside.

Martin – 24 Boulevard du Temple, 75011

2. Le Comptoir du Relais

Le Comptoir du Relais is the brainchild of culinary mastermind Yves Camdeborde, touted by some as the founder of the neo-bistro movement. His Comptoir is nearly impossible to get into at dinnertime, but at lunch, snag one of the coveted café tables for a drink, a delicious meal, and  prime 6th arrondissement people-watching.

Le Comptoir du Relais – 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006

3. La Mascotte

Perfectly positioned on the rue des Abbesses in picturesque Montmartre sit the two restaurants of La Mascotte: the brasserie and the écaille or seafood restaurant. Two restaurants means two terrasses, thus giving you twice the chance of finding a spot to people-watch in one of our all-time favorite neighborhoods.

La Mascotte – 52 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 

Image care of Moyann Brenn

Top 5 Spots in Paris for a Picnic

A top Parisian activity in the summertime is picnicking – and we at Paris Uncovered have become picnic experts over the years. Be sure your picnic bag or basket is filled with bread, at least on good knife (for cutting your saucisson, bien sûr), paper plates, napkins, cheese, and fresh, seasonal fruit. Grab a bottle of wine (and don’t forget your corkscrew!) and you’re ready to go!

As for where to go, nearly every park in Paris is prime picnicking ground, but we do have a handful of favorites to suggest.

Champ de Mars (Image care of Flickr/JPC24M)

1. Champ de Mars

Could anything be more classically Paris than a picnic in front of the Eiffel Tower? Choose this picnic ground in the evenings, when you can see the Eiffel Tower shimmer every hour on the hour with a beautiful light show.

 

Sitting along the Seine (Image care of Pixabay)

2. Berges de Seine

All along the riverbanks, people assemble for regular picnicking. Popular spots include the banks near Pont-Neuf and Pont-Marie and those near Notre Dame, although as long as the river is low enough, you can picnic nearly anywhere along the river and watch the Bateaux Mouches float by.

But one of our favorites is definitely the Berges de Seine, running along the Left Bank quai d’Orsay. Here, not only is there seating available for picnicking, but the city has prepared a host of fun activities like hopscotch and even some climbing apparatuses for kids.

 

Canal St Martin (image care of Wikimedia/Geoffrey)

3. Canal Saint-Martin

This trendier neighborhood to the north of Paris welcomes tons of picnickers every evening once the weather turns warmer. The quartier boasts quite a few great food and wine shops to source your picnic from, and many of the bars overlooking the canal even sell beer in to go cups, for something cool to sip on.

 

Basilica Sacre Coeur (Image care of Wikimedia/Sebastian Bergmann)

4. The Steps of Sacré Coeur

If ambiance is what you seek, look no further than the steps leading towards Sacré Coeur basilica, at the top of Montmartre. While space is in low supply here, the views over Paris and frequent musical stylings make this spot worth it.

 

Luxembourg Gardens (Image care of Pixabay/Mariamichelle)

5. Luxembourg Gardens

Daytime picnics can be enjoyed in any one of several parks, from Montsouris and Buttes Chaumont with their grassy knolls to the Tuileries with its lovely views of the Louvre. We especially love the Luxembourg, not only for its gorgeous flower patches, but as the perfect option for folks who aren’t too keen on sitting on the ground, as the city puts two types of chairs – upright and reclining – perfect for an afternoon of munching and enjoying the sunshine.

Main image care of Dirk Haun

claude monet

Top 3 Things to Do in Paris in June

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, a food tour – there are certain Paris must-sees that never change. But the French capital is also home to a thriving, ever-changing scene of exhibits, concerts, and more! Here are the three things we’re most excited about for this month.

1. See the Last Monet

The Orangerie museum has long played host to eight large-format water lily paintings created by Impressionist master Claude Monet. But for a limited time, the museum has welcomed a temporary exhibit of American abstract expressionists like Jackson Pollock, Helen Frankenthaler, and Ellsworth Kelly. Alongside these works are displayed a handful of rarely seen Monet works that will captivate lovers of the Impressionists.

2. Enjoy the New Jardin d’Acclimatation

As of the 1st of June, the Jardin d’acclimatation has reopened its doors, with 17 new attractions joining the original 23. The theme? Steampunk Paris. Go back in time and enjoy rides, animals, and a wander through nature on the outskirts of the city center.

3. Climb the Saint-Jacques Tower

The time has once again come for the Gothic Saint-Jacques Tower to open to the public. In the last few years, after extensive renovations, visitors have been welcomed to climb to the very top of this imposing structure in the Marais. Its central location is the ideal place to enjoy birds’-eye views of the entire city. Be sure to reserve your ticket in advance – this popular Paris attraction sells out!

paris bistro

Top 5 Restaurants in Paris Open on Mondays

Visitors to Paris are often surprised to learn that much of the city shutters on Sunday: banks, shops, even supermarkets. But what’s even more surprising is that Parisian restaurants tend to be closed, not on Sundays, but on Mondays. Since so many folks dine out on the weekend, Monday is a well-earned day off for restaurant staff.

Luckily, that doesn’t mean you need to go hungry! A host of Paris restaurants remain open on Mondays; here are just a handful of our favorites.

1. Café Constant

This classic French restaurant not far from the Eiffel Tower is home to one of the most reasonable prix fixe menus in the city. 36 euro will get you appetizer, main, and dessert, each exquisite (and most influenced by Chef Christian Constant’s Southwestern French background).

Café Constant -139 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007

2. La Bourse et La Vie

This restaurant near Paris’ stock market is the prime example of a neo-bistro, featuring classic French dishes dressed up with a modern flair. Chef Daniel Rose’s pot au feu is famous, and his gougères, served with apéritif, are worth the trip alone.

La Bourse et la Vie – 12 Rue Vivienne, 75002

3. Racines

Within the Passage des Panoramas lies this little natural wine bar, just as focused on food as on vino. With a Sardinian chef at the helm, Racines offers the perfect blend of French and Italian sensibilities.

Racines – 8 Passage des Panoramas, 75002

4. Café des Musées

This typical brasserie has long been a local haunt in the Marais. Their beef bourguignon is one of the best in the capital, and their unique play on escargots, served here in mushroom caps, is the perfect appetizer to share.

Café des Musées – 49 Rue de Turenne, 75003

5. Le relais de l’Entrecôte

This staple of Paris dining serves only one thing: entrecôte steak with a secret sauce. With a frisée and walnut salad appetizer and your choice of dessert, it takes all of the guesswork out of a delicious meal out.

Le Relais de l’Entrecôte – 15 Rue Marbeuf, 75008

Did we leave out one of our favorites? Let us know on Facebook!

giverny

3 Easy Day Trips from Paris via Train

There’s enough to see in Paris to keep you busy for a lifetime – both of your Paris Uncovered guides have been based here for years and still have tons of exploring left to do! But as the weather grows nicer, you may be on the lookout for a way to take in a different – greener – side of France, and that’s when it’s time to head to your closest train station: here are three of our all-time favorite easy day trips from Paris.

1. Giverny

Fans of Claude Monet’s Impressionist paintings shouldn’t miss a trip to his home in Normandy. The house displays a host of Monet’s works, but still more are evoked as you wander through the garden, complete with the water lilies, green rowboat, and Japanese bridge that featured so frequently in Monet’s paintings.

To get there, take the train from Saint-Lazare to Vernon. Buses shuttle passengers from the train station to the small town of Giverny, where you can spend the day wandering and soaking up Monet’s inspiration.

2. Fontainebleau

For a breath of fresh air, take the train to Fontainebleau, home to the château of the same name. Here, you’ll discover Marie Antoinette’s Turkish boudoir as well as a museum devoted to Napoleon. The ornamental gardens are exquisite, and those looking for something a bit more rustic will love tramping through the forest, known to locals as one of the prime bouldering spots in the region.

To get there, grab a train from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon station.

3. Chartres

To the southwest, Chartres is home to yet another Notre-Dame that is, if possible, even more impressive than the cathedral of the same name in Paris. The Gothic marvel was completed in 1220 and features two exquisite spires and distinctive blue-tinted stained glass.

Make a day of it, and wander the charming medieval village of Chartres before hopping back on a train to Paris in time for dinner.

To get there, board a Chartres-bound train from Montparnasse.

Insider’s Tip! While you can usually purchase tickets just before you head out to any one of these destinations, if you don’t want to risk disappointment, stop by any station or SNCF shop in Paris a few days before, or purchase your ticket online on the SNCF website!

croissant

Top 5 Viennoiseries in Paris

Perhaps one of the most famous French pastries is the croissant, but this beloved flaky wonder isn’t actually considered a pastry at all, by the French! Instead, it’s part of a category known as viennoiseries (named after Vienna – the city where the very first proto-croissant was born). These “pastries” are less sweet than the French desserts like éclairs and tartes that more frequently sport the name pâtisserie. Whereas pâtisseries are eaten at the end of a meal, viennoiseries actually make the perfect special occasion breakfast!

To get to know even more about this unique category of French baked goods, here are some of our faves in the city.

1. Top Pain au Chocolat – Blé Sucré

What Anglophones know as a “chocolate croissant” is dubbed either a pain au chocolat or a chocolatine in France. The one from Blé Sucré is unparalleled in its flakiness!

Blé Sucré – 7 Rue Antoine Vollon, 75012

2. Top Croissant aux Amandes – Vandermeersch

The almond croissant at Vandermeersch boasts the best ratio of flaky pastry and sweet almond filling we’ve found anywhere. Add to this that the bakery is co-owned by macaron master Pierre Hermé, and it’s no surprise that the details are spot-on.

Vandermeersch – 278 Avenue Daumesnil, 75012

3. Top Escargot – Du Pain et Des Idées

An escargot, in this case, doesn’t refer to a snail stuffed in butter, but rather to the viennoiserie more often sold as a pain aux raisins. The most traditional version of this baked good is made by spreading pastry cream over the same dough used to make a croissant, scattering it with rum soaked raisins, and rolling it up so that snail shell-shaped pastries can be cut. But Du Pain et Des Idées takes it a step further, with flavors like chocolate-pistachio, nougat, or even berry-cream cheese. The pastry itself is a dream – rich, buttery, and flaky. You can’t go wrong, here!

Du Pain et des Idées – 34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010

4. Top Chausson aux Pommes – Poilâne

Directly translated as an “apple slipper,” a chausson aux pommes is a puff pastry filled with an apple surprise. This master of the miche country-style loaf makes his chaussons a bit differently than most, with whole chunks of apple in place of the apple compote that’s usually used.

Poilâne – 8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006

5. Top Croissant au beurre – Cyril Lignac

You wouldn’t think it, in Paris, but some croissants are actually made with margarine! Of course, that’s not the case for Cyril Lignac’s butter croissant or croissant au beurre: in fact, you can really taste the exquisite butter when you bite into this rich, flaky pastry. Get it while it’s hot, and this croissant will literally melt in your mouth.

La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac – 24 Rue Paul Bert, 75011

What’s your favorite viennoiserie in Paris? Share with us in the comments or on Facebook!